Paul Robinson Training Video
Paul Robinson is one of world's top boulders. He has traveled extensively around the world putting up world class first ascents and repeating difficult test pieces. When you look at climbers who get to travel as much as Paul does, it can be easy to think he simply spends all [...]
Bouldering Training: Free Recovery Workout
A huge part of successfully training for climbing is discipline. Most of the time we think about that as the discipline to head into the gym and consistently try our hardest. While this is obviously the most important part of training, we also need to keep in mind that not [...]
Rock and Ice – How to Cope with Redpoint Nerves
Anyone who has ever undertaken a longterm project knows that the redpointing process has a huge mental component to it. Sure, you have to learn how to climb the route and become physically fit enough to send, but as you get closer and closer to success it can become harder [...]
Climb Strong: Variations on Integrated Strength
When most of us think about training strength for climbing, the first thing that comes to mind is hangboarding for finger strength. But what about core strength? What about shoulder stability? How about pulling power? And don't forget about training general strength to protect against injury and as a foundation [...]
Climbing Magazine – Translating Training to Outdoor Performance
Training is hard work. If you are going to put in the blood, sweat, and tears, you want to make sure it translates to improved climbing performance outside. After all, achieving a personal best on the hangboard is cool, but sending your project in a whole lot cooler! To help [...]
Lattice Training: Adam Ondra and Alex Megos by the Numbers
With Adam Ondra's incredible ascent of Silence, the world's first 5.15d or 9c, still fresh in the news, speculation has already started as to when another climber will achieve this level. Alex Megos is an obvious candidate. Based on their tick lists, Adam Ondra and Alex Megos are two of, [...]
FrictionLabs: Intro to Climbing Movement with Dan Mirsky
Focus on getting good at climbing, not just on getting strong. To help you really put this sentiment into action, here's an article from the FrictionLabs blog by climber and coach Dan Mirsky. The article is an introduction to climbing movement, how to improve it, and how we should view [...]
Beginner Campus Board Session Video
For beginner climbers, it can be really tempting to rush into more advanced training techniques. Adding things like a campus board session to the end of your workout can seem like the path to climbings upper levels. We cannot stress enough that climbing is first and foremost a skill sport. [...]
Top 5 Endurance Training Articles
Climbing long routes requires endurance. When most climbers hear endurance training, all they think of is cranking out lap after lap on routes in the gym until their forearms give out. However, this kind of endurance training is not only boring, it's also inefficient. As we learn more and more [...]
Wrist Pain – Conquer the Crux
Most climbing injuries are the result of overuse. While fingers, shoulders, and elbows are common culprits, our wrist are also susceptible. Luckily, wrist pain, as with all overuse injuries, is completely avoidable. To help you understand what causes wrist pain and resolve any ongoing wrist injuries, here's an article by [...]