How Matt and Alex Coach Their Clients to Be Better Boulderers
In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulderers. They’re both pretty psyched on bouldering themselves, so we also talk about how they train for bouldering in their own lives.
When we started talking, I was assuming they were going to tell me all the ways they have boulderers get stronger in the weight room and on the fingerboard, but we really only talked about that for a little while.
What they did focus on were the things they find to be way more important for that in real life… things like how to get yourself to try harder, how to change your sessions to be more structured and less “just bouldering,” and how important mobility training is to boulderers. There’s a lot of tactical talk in this episode about what it takes to be a good boulderer overall.
More Details
- How to get yourself to try harder and how to quantify it
- Structured flash practice drill
- Hardest boulder circuit drill
- How to approach a boulder strategically instead of just throwing yourself at it
- Thinking in terms of style instead of grade, and how that helps you work your weaknesses
- Some talk about how to fall appropriately, and when not to fall
- Finger training, what weight training to do, and why it’s all even more important to do for bouldering
- When to shelve training and just go bouldering, and for how long that’s sustainable
Show Links
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Photo Credit
Photo of Tina Nguyen @tinaawinn working the beginning moves of the Horse Pens 40 classic Mulletino (V5) by Brandon Belcher @mr.bigstrings
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