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Juliet Hammer on Weight Training and Racism in Climbing

Date: July 29th, 2020

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About Juliet Hammer

Juliet Hammer is a strength coach, climbing coach, and strong climber out of Denver, Colorado. She’s 25 years old and has been climbing for 15 years. As a climber, she’s a powerhouse, having sent up to V11 and done very well on the competition side of things.

There are a lot of reasons I wanted to have her on the show, including the fact that she deadlifts 265lbs (omg) and as a fellow 5’0″ climber I wanted to know how she compensates for being short. She’s also been very vocal on social media (@juliet_amanda) about social justice issues, and I wanted to talk with her about race issues in the climbing community.

She was thankfully very open about her own experience with racial discrimination in the climbing community, and brought to the conversation some historical context of race in climbing, ie the history of climbing overlaid on the history of the social justice movement.

She also discusses her scholarship program, where she’s offering free strength training for climbing to a couple of people who need financial help. You can find out more about that and her services in general on Instagram @juliet_amanda.

We talk about where to begin to learn about racism and about online call-outs and call-ins that are happening to try to activate white people to do more. I ask about the shaming that’s been happening and how she decides whether or not white people are being performative or authentic on social media.

This episode is good on so many levels because you’ll get useful information about weight training for climbing, how to compensate for being short, and how to navigate this social justice movement within the climbing community.

Juliet Hammer Interview Details

  • How she got into climbing and then training
  • Some highlights in her climbing career so far
  • Her impressive deadlift PR and what it’s done for her climbing
  • Weight training for climbing
  • Compensation for being short
  • Grading for short people
  • Her training scholarship program
  • What people should be focusing on with training during pandemic
  • Discrimination she’s faced as a person of color
  • Social justice history vs climbing history
  • Posting on social media about climbing during a social justice movement
  • What is performative vs authentic

Juliet Hammer Interview Links 

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Photo Credit

Photo of Juliet on Tomahawk V10 at Lincoln Lake by Nayton Rosales @naytonrosales

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TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, climbing training classes, nutrition classes, regular blog posts, interviews on The TrainingBeta Podcast, personal coaching for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

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