Effective Gym Training Strategies (for Route Climbing)
Hopefully you are out enjoying the summer climbing season and sending hard. However, if you are somewhere without good summer conditions and are stuck climbing indoors, hopefully you are making the most of your time and training hard for the fall/winter season. With that in mind, here is an article [...]
How Breathing Can Increase Your Strength and Power
Is breathing something you think about while you are climbing? When you are watching a friend from the ground do you shout "BREATHE!" as a form of encouragement? Most climbers understand that breathing while climbing is important as it allows us to relax and flow through moves without getting a [...]
Determining the Best Protein Sources
It is common knowledge that athletes of any kind need sufficient amounts of protein to allow their muscles to recover, repair, and get stronger from the abuse that their sport and training inflict on them. For climbers the challenge is to get enough high quality protein without consuming so too [...]
5 Things You Can Do to Improve Your Bouldering
Looking to improve your bouldering performance but not sure where to start or what to do? Neil Gresham, one of Britain's best known climbers, wrote this article from the ukclimbing.com site, giving a quick 5-point checklist for doing exactly that. He talks about: mental skills tactics the importance of variety training specifically [...]
Projecting 101 – 6 Tips for Sending
Everyone knows that success projecting routes at your limit requires strong fingers, excellent power endurance, and the ability to hang on forever. While all of these physical traits can be improved through hard work and training, they are only half of the equation. Success projecting also revolves around using the [...]
Endurance Training with Alex Barrows
If you are looking to improve your roped climbing whether sport climbing or trad climbing, endurance training and power endurance training are of the upmost importance. Fortunately, there are ways to train endurance that do not require a partner and doing lap after lap roped up in the climbing gym. Here's [...]
Free Q&A Call for August
I have some good news for you if you're wanting some free advice on your training, climbing, nutrition, and all that. We're Doing A Live FREE Q&A Session Next Week! When people sign up for the Route Training Program or the Bouldering Training Program, they automatically get free monthly Q&A [...]
FrictionLabs Chalk: A Review
This review of FrictionLabs chalk was kindly written by Dan Mirsky. Dan has redpointed 30+ 5.14 rock climbs all across the country, so he knows the importance of having good, reliable chalk. Don't miss the discount they're giving TrainingBeta readers at the bottom of the review! He takes a slightly [...]
Review of Pulley Injury Literature
If you climb for long enough eventually you will probably have to deal with some kind of finger injury. While careful training and preventative care can stave off injury, chances are eventually you are to have some sort of pulley injury. However, the severity of these injuries can vary a [...]
Tips for Effective Redpointing
With fall rapidly approaching, its time to try and finish off that summer project and get ready for fall's sending temps. With that in mind, here's an article by climbing trainer Eric Hörst of Training for Climbing that has ten do's and don'ts for effective redpointing. "Either way, effective projecting requires a [...]