Ego and Rock Climbing
How do ego and rock climbing fit together? Does your ego play into your rock climbing performance or is it something you can simply ignore? Even if you think you're a pretty low key climber who doesn't have a chip on your shoulder, you may be surprised just how much [...]
Injury-Free Movement for Rock Climbers
If you're a psyched rock climber, there's really nothing worse than having to take large portions of time off climbing just to rehab injuries. While climbing injuries do happen, one of your main training goals should be actively preventing and avoiding injuries. However, an often overlooked form of injury prevention [...]
How to Time Weight Loss
When it comes to weight loss, we almost always talk about how to loose weight, but never address when. However, for climbers looking to maximize their performance, the when is just as important as the how. The reason for this is that to lose weight you need to be in a state of caloric [...]
8 Functional Strength Training Exercises for Climbing
For most of us, when we think of training for climbing, we think of exercises that are climbing specific like fingerboarding and 4x4s. However, if you look at any other sport, we see athletes incorporating functional strength training that is not sport specific into their training. "Climbers need to know [...]
Freebie Shoulder Workout
An unfortunate reality of climbing and training is that it can leave us injured and unable to continue progressing in our sport. While there are loads of different ways you can injure yourself climbing, one of the most common areas climbers injuries is their shoulders. Additionally, shoulder injuries can [...]
Do Less – Climb Strong
Almost all the articles we post on this blog revolve around some type training that you can add into your routine to help you improve. While all of us here at Training Beta definitely believe in training hard to reach our goals, what if part of the answer for truly taking [...]
Ultimate Rock Climbing Skin Care Handbook
It's the last day of a road trip, you've been falling on the last move of your project, but are psyched to give it one last ditch effort. Devastatingly though, you've got a split tip, the rest of your skin is soft and sweaty, and even looking at a crimp [...]
Eva Lopez Finger Strength Training
As climbers, we all know that having strong fingers is important for climbing harder routes and boulders. When we first start climbing, we develop finger strength just through climbing. However, eventually, these gains level off and if you are really looking to maximize your potential, just climbing isn't enough as it [...]
Jerry Moffatt – “Power is a Quality Thing”
To help you stay psyched on training and trying your hardest, here are two must see videos from the German climbing gym Cafe Kraft that feature British climbing legend Jerry Moffatt. Jerry Moffatt was one of if not the top climbers of the 80's and 90's. During his career, he, [...]
Rock Climbing Maintenance from Home
An unfortunate reality for many climbers is that they have way more motivation than they have time. While this can be frustrating as life constraints severely limit time spent climbing outside or even in the gym, this time away from climbing does not mean you have to loose your hard [...]