Tips for Better Balance
Can you crank 1-5-9 on the campus board, but start shaking in your boots at the sight of a slab? What about on your project? Do you hike through the steep, overhanging terrain only to fall on the 5.10 slabby headwall? If either of these situation describes you then you [...]
Climbing Training Tips from the Pros
Many climbers think that the main thing that separates the top climbing pros from the rest of us is their genetic ability. However, while natural ability does play a part, one of the main things that allows the pros to climb at such a high level is that they have figured [...]
Conquering a Fear of Falling – Crux Crush
One of the most limiting factors in many peoples' climbing is a fear of falling. Unfortunately, unlike limiting physical factors like a lack of finger strength or an inability to lock-off that can easily be addressed through targeted training, attacking mental barriers is much more difficult. However, just because addressing [...]
5 Reasons Why Stronger Fingers Matter
Here at TrainingBeta, we post a lot of articles about how to improve your finger strength. We have covered numerous different hangboard routines, which hangboards are our favorite, and how to improve finger strength for different grips. However, while following a training program the prioritizes finger strength will certainly help improve [...]
Gym to Crag – Evening Sends
The sport of climbing is growing at an extremely rapid rate and an increasing number of people are starting out climbing exclusively in climbing gyms. While there is nothing inherently wrong with this, the transition from gym to crag for many of newer climbers is not always the smoothest process. [...]
The Perfect Climbing Warm-Up
Properly warming up for a climbing or training session is extremely important. Your warm-up allows you to ready your body and mind to try their hardest and put forth the serious efforts required for sending your projects. However, finding your own perfect climbing warm-up is not always simple. When warming [...]
Does Climbing Help Psychological Problems? Help This Psychiatrist Find Out.
Climbing brings us joy. Well, at least most of the time... When we're stressed about work, relationships, our health, or money, climbing can make us forget it all. It can even help people with serious psychological/emotional problems heal. A really good friend of ours, Chris Rogers, is a psychiatrist and a [...]
Why Do I Suck At Climbing Some Days?!? Part 3: Efficient Training
A lot of the articles we post on the TrainingBeta blog focus on a new exercise or workout you can add into your training in the hopes they will make you stronger and help you climb harder. However, while these exercise and workouts if used properly can help you do [...]
Overcoming Setbacks with Alex Puccio
Recently, we posted a video about Alex Puccio's Road to Recovery from her ACL and MCL tears. The video gives you a behind the scenes look at Alex's recovery process and all the hard work she put in to be able to return to climbing at the V13 level only [...]
Progressing Endurance Training
Endurance training is an important part of any training program if you are looking to climb routes. However, simply doing lap after lap on routes at your local gym probably won't produce the kind of gains you are looking for. To help make those gains, here's an article by trainer [...]