The Scapular Pull-up
Shoulders are one of the most commonly injured body parts in climbing. However, if you put in the time and use the correct exercises, most shoulder injuries are preventable. Ultimately, one of the most overlooked exercises that will go a long way towards preventing shoulder injuries by developing correct movement [...]
Improve Your Head Game
Have you ever wondered why some climbers seem to be able to push through and send when things don't seem to be going well, and other climbers who are just as strong simply crumble? Ultimately, the difference between these two types of climbers isn't physical or simply that the climber [...]
Strength Session Design
More and more climbers are starting to incorporate some traditional strength training movements into their climbing training. Deadlifting is the perfect example as it is becoming more and more popular with climbers. However, for most climbers the structure of a strength session is simply learning to lift heavy and keep [...]
Tips for Getting Better Not Stronger
Most of what we deal with at TrainingBeta are ways you can train to make yourself a stronger climber. However, working to get stronger is only half of the equation and really is the half that should be focused on second. The other half is working on getting better not stronger. [...]
Fact or Fiction: The Recovery Beer
For many of us, there is little more enjoyable than a nice cold beer after a hard day of climbing. While how enjoyable this beer is is not up for debate, climbers often like to justify their post climbing beverages by calling them a "recovery beer." The idea behind this [...]
How to Flag – Climbing Magazine
While the goal of training is always to get stronger, it's also important to work on your technique and getting better at climbing if you really want to keep progressing. To help you continue becoming more technically proficient, here's an article from Climbing Magazine by Julie Ellison that covers the ins [...]
Rhino Skin Solutions Review
This review of the Rhino Skin Solutions products was written for us by Dan Mirsky. Dan has redpointed 30+ 5.14 rock climbs all across the country, which beyond being extremely impressive, means that he knows a thing or two about dealing with the ups and downs of skin care as [...]
Organizing Your Cragging Program
With training for climbing becoming more and more popular, climbers are becoming more systematic in their approach towards improvement. However, for most climbers, this desire to really plan out their climbing and track it only covers their indoor climbing/training. Once outside, most climbers adopt a more random approach and have [...]
Heal Finger Injuries Faster
If you climb for long enough, eventually you will probably experience finger injuries. While having an injured finger is bad enough on its own, finger injuries are often some of the slowest healing tweaks climbers experience. Ultimately, the reason for this is due to the fact that tendons and finger [...]
Portable Training Devices for Climbing
Whether you are moving around the country living out of a van or are consistently on the move for business, consistent travel presents some serious challenges for climbers who are still looking to follow a systematic training program. The main crux being that when you are on the move you aren't [...]