Eva Lopez Climbing Injury Prevention II
A couple weeks ago we posted the first half of an interview Dr. Jared Vagy, The Climbing Doctor, did with Spanish climber and trainer Eva Lopez about injury prevention and what she does to keep herself and her athletes from getting sidelined by injury. In this first part of the interview, [...]
Hangboard Ladders with Steve Bechtel
At this point, most climbers understand that using a hangboard is the best way to build finger strength. However, while hangboards are simple tools, using them properly and with minimal risk of injury is a little more complicated. To help you steadily build finger strength without injuring your fingers in the [...]
How I Came Back Stronger After A Finger Injury
It's Neely this time, and I want to introduce Matt Pincus, our content manager over here at TrainingBeta. He's been providing you with fantastic blog posts and social media posts since mid 2015, and today he's doing so as a featured author on TrainingBeta. A while back, Matt sustained a finger [...]
5 Tips for Preventing Climbing Injuries
Injuries are an unfortunate reality in climbing. If you are consistently trying to improve and push your level, chances are you've dealt with an injury or two before. However, while not all injuries are completely avoidable, many climbing injuries are actually overuse injuries that can and should be prevented. [...]
Ben Davison Training Videos
Over the past several weeks, Epic TV has been posting a series of training videos featuring UK strongman Ben Davison. In the videos, Ben takes you through most of his training program beginning with his warm up and antagonist training and covering his finger strength training and endurance work. Ben is [...]
Survey: Climbing and Income
Our friends over at Crux Crush are doing a survey about climbing and income and are looking to learn more about the accessibility of climbing and to what extent income proves to be a barrier to entry. Here's what they had to say about the survey: "As the sport of [...]
Forearm Stretches – The Self Coached Climber
For most of us, consistent and stretching is something we haven't done since gym class or high school sports practices. While almost all climbers would benefit from a general stretching routine to help increase flexibility and protect range of motion, target forearm stretches can be hugely beneficial in helping deal [...]
Eva Lopez Climbing Injury Prevention
We talk a lot here at TrainingBeta about injury prevention. While we think that everything we post on the topic is important, today's article from Dr. Jared Vagy's blog, The Climbing Doctor, deserves some extra attention. It features an interview with Spanish climber, trainer, and doctor of finger strength Eva Lopez [...]
Online Yoga for Climbers
The idea that doing yoga can help your climbing by improving balance, flexibility, and preventing injury is nothing new. However, if you have ever been to a yoga class, it's clear that standard yoga studio classes are not tailored to climbers specifically. Additionally, unless you are a seasoned yogi, it's [...]
Clipping Basics for Sport Climbing
If you are new to sport climbing and leading in general, then the act of clipping the rope through the quickdraws can seem difficult and sometimes even overwhelming. However, learning some clipping basics and spending some time practicing will quickly make getting the rope into the draws seem far less [...]