Periodization and Load Progression for ARC Training
If you are looking to improve your route climbing, then building endurance should be one of your top priorities. One of the best ways to do this is through capacity work like ARC training. Doing long duration intervals will help your forearms adapt to holding on for extended periods of [...]
Rest Day Recipe
Like it or not, proper nutrition plays a huge role in climbing performance. That being said, your nutritional needs differ on climbing and non-climbing days. When you are out at the crag or training, it is imperative that you are consuming enough calories to fuel the hard work you are [...]
The Three Underlying Reasons for Climbing Injuries
Anyone who has trained hard for or taken climbing seriously knows the constant risk of injury. On TrainingBeta, we have also written extensively about all the antagonist exercises you should be doing to stave off climbing injuries before they happen. However, while oppositional exercises are important and something all climbers [...]
Research on Grip Strength Training
While we have definitely learned a lot about how to effectively train for climbing in the last few years, most of what climbers base their training programs off of is anecdotal evidence that has not been definitely proven by scientific studies. While ultimately this doesn't matter as long as the training [...]
Simulation Training: How to Do a Move You Can’t Do
If you have a specific goal route or boulder, you aren't going to send if you can't do all the individual moves. Once you can do all the moves, it doesn't mean that the send is in the bag, but it does mean that with enough persistence it is possible [...]
10 Minute Core Sequence
It's no secret that having a strong core is important for climbing. However, a strong functional core doesn't mean just having a nice six-pack. For climbing, strengthening your core means targeting your entire trunk. To do this effectively, you are going to need a core sequence consisting of a lot [...]
Eric Hörst – 4 Fingerboard Strength Protocols
It is no secret that having strong fingers is important for climbing difficult routes and boulders. Additionally, research has now shown that for experienced climbers fingerboards are the most effective tool for producing finger strength gains. However, as with any type of training, there are effective and ineffective ways to [...]
Is Soy Dangerous for Men?
For people with a plant based diet or anyone looking for a relatively inexpensive protein source, soy is an attractive option. However, is soy dangerous? There is a commonly held belief that consuming too much soy can actually affect hormone levels and have adverse side-effects especially for men. To answer the [...]
Alison Osius: The Best Things I’ve Leaned in Climbing
When it comes to trying to improve at climbing, there is so much information out there that the most important information can get lost or overshadowed. In reality, no mater how many articles or books you read and how hard you train mastering the basics of climbing movement is the [...]
Mark Anderson on Sending Shadowboxing
In sport climbing, we tend to celebrate the ascents that require climbers to commit to sustained efforts over multiple season and become better climbers in the process of sending. While that is something we all might aspire to, actually committing to this process is something few climbers ever really do. [...]