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TrainingBeta Blog2024-08-06T13:47:12-06:00

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Eric Hörst: Contact Strength Training Video

Today, we have the second installment in Eric Hörst's training for climbing video series with EpicTV.  While the first video focused on hangboard training and how to effectively develop maximum finger strength, this video features campus board exercises that focus on contact strength. "In this episode of my Epic-TV training series, [...]

December 9th, 2016|

Failure to Sleep = Failure to Train

How much do you sleep a night?  Do you make sure that you get a full eight hours or do you settle for whatever you can fit into your busy schedule?  Well it turns out that a failure to sleep at least eight hours a night can significantly affect your [...]

December 6th, 2016|

Grip Trainers – Gimmicks or Not?

If you search around the internet, you'll quickly find a wide variety of grip strength trainers many of which are marketed directly at climbers.  However, while these grip trainers may seem enticing as easy portable ways to increase finger strength, whether or not they are actually able to produce climbing [...]

December 3rd, 2016|

Energy System Training

When you go to train are you dissatisfied until you leave the gym completely pumped and totally wrecked?  While it is definitely fun to push ourselves really hard when climbing, going to the point of exhaustion and then past it isn't the most efficient training. To help you train more efficiently, [...]

December 1st, 2016|

Kraft Factory Training – Shoulder Stability

Coaches Dicki Korb and Patrick Matros of Germany's Kraft Factory are the trainers behind Alex Megos' success so they clearly know a thing or two about producing high level climbers.  With many of their training techniques they take a slightly different approach that really stresses mobility, antagonist, and stability work. [...]

November 27th, 2016|

Rings/TRX Workout Video

If you have ever watched a gymnast perform a ring routine, their upper body and core strength are extremely apparent.  While being able to hold an iron cross isn't necessary for hard climbing, using rings or TRX trainers to train for climbing can produce some serious results.  Because the rings [...]

November 25th, 2016|

Anderson Brothers Core Training

Whether you prefer climbing slabs, steep sport routes, or difficult boulder problems, improving your core strength will have a positive effect on your climbing performance.  However, exactly how to train your core in a functional, climbing-specific way is slightly more complicated and something climbers often misunderstand.  Your core is not [...]

November 22nd, 2016|

Training For Climbing – Finger Strength Video

If you follow this blog, then you've definitely noticed that we believe finger strength training on a hangboard is one of the foundations of training for climbing.  While we do our best to provide you with information on different effective ways to fingerboard, we know that it can be easy [...]

November 19th, 2016|

Barbell Rehab

When people talk about strength training for climbing, most assume that it should be focused primarily on finger strength and our ability to pull.  While both of these attributes are definitely important, focusing entirely on them neglects training overall strength in a way that will ensure we are functionally strong [...]

November 18th, 2016|

Lattice Training Interview with Will Bosi

If you follow the climbing media, it seems like a new teenage crusher is always popping up.  It can be easy to get lost in who is now the youngest to climb whatever grade, and it can be tempting to simply write off these kids' accomplishments as them being prodigies. [...]

November 13th, 2016|
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