Climb Strong: Don’t Try to Get Tired…
Summer is fully underway. While we hope you are getting outside and climbing as much as possible, fall is just around the corner and it's time to start thinking about training for it if you want to be ready for the good temps. With all the training information out there, [...]
Transcript Highlight: Daniel Woods on Training for Routes
I know what you're thinking. Daniel Woods is a boulderer. Why should I listen to him about training for sport climbs? Well, the simple answer is that while Daniel is best know for being one of the strongest boulderers on the planet, he also has multiple 5.14d and 5.15 ascents [...]
Beast Fingers Strength-to-Weight Ratio Study
Our friends at Beast Fingers Climbing are conducting research and need your help! Essentially, Beast Fingers, makers of the Grippul, are studying strength-to-weight ratio in climbers and they need more participants. When you compare training for climbing to training for other mainstream sports like swimming and cycling, we are way [...]
Adam Ondra Training Series – EpicTV
Adam Ondra is a climber who needs no introduction. He has established and repeated the world's hardest climbs on everything from sport routes, to boulders, to the Dawn Wall. While Adam may seem like a purely natural talent, he has put a truly staggering amount of hard work into his training. [...]
Midwest Training for Climbing Conference
Training for climbing is exploding in popularity. As a result, there's more information available about how to improve your climbing than ever before. Unfortunately, knowing individual training techniques doesn't mean you have the full picture. This is especially true when it comes to coaching others and in particular youth athletes. It's [...]
Steve Bechtel: Power vs Strength
In his most recent TrainingBeta Podcast, climbing trainer and coach Steve Bechtel talks extensively about how to design your own training program. Ultimately, a lot of his and Neely's discussion revolves around how using a nonlinear periodization model is a great way to train for more year round climbing performance (it's [...]
Treadwall Training with Climbing Magazine
Training routes in a climbing gym can be tricky. Even putting aside other hurdles like crowds, the main reason for this is that you need a partner to belay you. While this may not seem like too big of a deal, try consistently finding someone who is going to selflessly [...]
Finger Strength: Free Beginner Hangboard Workout
When it comes to the physical side of training for climbing, the most important thing to focus on is training finger strength. Not only is it central to improving performance, but it also takes the longest to develop so consistently working on it is the best approach. However, for newer climbers [...]
The Climbing Doctor: Thoracic Mobility for Climbers
Mobility is the new buzzword in injury prevention and rehab. While mobility work certainly isn't new, climbers are starting to realize that actively working on and improving our mobility is essential for pain free climbing. You can work on mobility for any part of the body. However, one of the [...]
Transcript Highlight: Mathilde Becerra on Double Sessions
With all the information on training and all the exercises you"should be doing," it can be hard to know how to fit everything in without turning your sessions into 5 hour marathons that leave you wrecked for a week. Additionally, during really long sessions you can only feel fresh and [...]