Top 5 Power Endurance Training Articles
When you look up at a 100 foot sport climb, we all understand that you need good endurance to climb to the chains. However, when you break down even the longest routes, the difference between success and failure often comes down to being able to climb smaller several bolt sections [...]
Pulley Injuries Explained – The Climbing Doctor
Like it or not, climbing puts a lot of stress on our fingers. Do it for long enough and chances are you will experience some kind of finger injury. While finger injuries can range from severe tendon ruptures to minor tweaks, by far the most common are pulley injuries. To [...]
Black Diamond Rope Review
While any climbing rope from a major manufacturer will keep you safe, not all ropes are equally pleasant to use. Anyone who has ever dealt with a rope that is prone to twisting, getting stuck, or just doesn't handle well can attest to that. With that in mind, picking a [...]
EpicTV- Adam Ondra Power Endurance Campusing
When most of us think of the campus board we think of it as power training tool. While this is definitely it's most common use, campusing can also be used to train power endurance as the recent EpicTV video with Adam Ondra illustrates. This video is another installment in a [...]
Transcript Highlight: Bill Ramsey on Age and Climbing
Bill Ramsey is a legendary climber having established 5.14 routes and climbed 5.14b at the age of 54. If you know Bill, you also know how manically devoted he is to his training. Bill has developed his own training philosophy and is constantly trying to figure out exactly what he [...]
More for Less: Blood Flow Restriction Training
Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. Blood flow restriction training, ever heard [...]
My Mother-In-Law Made Belay Glasses for People Who Wear Glasses
I (Neely) think belay glasses are a crucial piece of gear for every route climber, whether you're training inside or climbing outside. I've struggled with neck issues for 20 years, and without belay glasses, I would probably not be climbing, much less training for climbing. My mother-in-law, Elyn Lytton, wears prescription [...]
Chris Sharma and Patxi Usobiaga Training Video
When it comes to training, nothing is more important than motivation. Being psyched and ready to dig deep and try your hardest will take you much farther than any new hangboard protocol or flashy commercial gym. The new video of Chris Sharma and Patxi Usobiaga training in Patxi's home gym [...]
Rock Climbing Nutrition: Performance Day Guidelines
All the training and hard work we put in is as climbers is to improve our outdoor climbing. When you get to go outside feeling fit, motivated, and with good conditions, you want to make the most of it. Fueling our bodies properly on a performance day is an important [...]
How Shoulder Mobility Affects Your Climbing
Shoulders, shoulders, shoulders... More and more climbers are dealing with chronic shoulder pain. This isn't something we should be looking to simply grit our teeth and climb through. That's a quick way to end up on the couch recovering from an expensive and painful shoulder surgery. Instead, ALL climbers should be [...]