Blog Posts by Coach Matt and Coach Alex
Matt Pincus: Projecting Principles
ANNOUNCEMENT Coach Matt Pincus is now offering 1-hour coaching sessions. Normally, Matt only works with people on a monthly or quarterly basis, but for the holidays he's offering hourly Zoom sessions so climbers can get their questions answered and [...]
Alex Stiger: How I Trained for Tomb Raider 5.13d
ANNOUNCEMENT Coach Alex Stiger is now offering 3 workshops for $75 until December 26th! Learn how to use the TRX, gymnastics rings, and the hangboard to improve your climbing performance in these 90-minute workshops that include 3 months of [...]
Matt Pincus: Training While Trying to Send
You've trained hard for months, you're feeling strong, and conditions are prime on your project. It's time to send! But wait?!?!?!?!?! You've got a job and commitments outside of climbing. This means you can only get to your project on [...]
Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training
You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you [...]
Matt Pincus: 4 Keys to Limit Bouldering
A staple of most training programs is that they contain some kind of bouldering. Even programs designed for route climbers typically have a bouldering component. The reason for this is that bouldering is a simple and efficient way to train strength [...]
Matt Pincus: Fitting Everything In
A big question I get from my athletes is about fitting everything into their training schedule. After all, there are only so many hours in the week and you need rest days so fitting everything in can be difficult. However, we [...]
Gnarly Nutrition Product Review
Athletes in almost all major sports use supplements to help them meet their nutritional needs. However, many climbers look at supplements with skepticism. We worry that supplements will either make us bulk up like bodybuilders or that they are simply a [...]
Training with an Injury
In the last two years, I've broken my leg and had to take 3-months off climbing due to a finger injury. Currently, I feel like the thing I'm best at is getting back into good climbing form after injuries. However, [...]
Comparing Hangboard Protocols
Hangboards are the best way to train finger strength. When used properly, they are extremely safe and let us fine tune the intensity of our workouts. However, for climbers new to training on a fingerboard, the details of different hangboard protocols [...]
How to Train Power without a Campus Board
One of the most common questions we get here at TrainingBeta is what people should substitute into their training when they don't have access to a campus board. Before we talk about what other types of training can take the place [...]