I have some good news for you if you’re wanting some free advice on your training, climbing, nutrition, and all that.
We’re Doing A Live FREE Q&A Session Next Week!
When people sign up for the Route Training Program or the Bouldering Training Program, they automatically get free monthly Q&A sessions with the creator of those programs, Kris Peters.
But we decided to open up the Q&A sessions to everyone, because everyone has great questions about training, and we can all learn from each other.
When
The hour-long Q&A will happen on Tuesday, August 25th at 7pm Mountain Daylight Time.
Who Will Be Answering Questions?
You’ll be able to ask Kris Peters, Dan Mirsky, and me anything you want about training for climbing.
Kris Peters – As a trainer to some of the best climbers in the world (and many budding climbers, as well), Kris Peters has a wide breadth of knowledge about training for climbing, and he created many of the programs on TrainingBeta.
Dan Mirsky – As a 5.14c climber, Dan Mirsky is well-equipped with tons of training knowledge and hands-on experience with projecting and training for projects.
Neely Quinn – As a nutritionist and a 5.13 climber, I (Neely Quinn) know a lot about food and health as they relate to climbing and training.
So we’ll be answering your questions on all things training, nutrition, and climbing.
What Format?
It’ll be a Live Streaming YouTube Video, and you’ll be able to ask questions by writing them in the chat box, and we’ll answer them to the best of our knowledge. We’ll then send the recording of the event out as a podcast episode so anyone can listen to it.
Please Ask Questions Here
YOU CAN ALSO COMMENT BELOW WITH QUESTIONS! We’ll do our best to answer all of them.
–>> Come to the Live Q&A at 7pm MDT August 25th
We hope to see you at the Q&A next week! And don’t forget to comment below with any training questions!
Until then,
Neely
TrainingBeta Ringleader
where is the video link?
I have been coming back from an arm (mainly elbow) injury caused by another sport and then made worse by climbing. While I think I finally have it under control I was curious how you would advise one trains one side of their upper body without proportionately increasing the stronger side of their body as well? I have set up a small systems wall at my house. So far while my weak side is getting stronger so has my stronger side. I would like to bridge the gap and I’ve been afraid to do anything that involves things like one arm hangs because I don’t feel I am close to that level yet and I would like to avoid injuring an already damaged arm. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all for your time.
Hi Neely,
Well this got longer than expected but have a couple questions” I hope you guys can have a look at for the Q&A – Some background info
To keep in shape generally I’ve been focused on big 3 lifts (squats, deadlifts, bench press) with some bent rows and shoulder press. For the past 5-6 months I’ve been climbing hard 3-4 times per week (route climbing program with my GF & a day to have fun) and getting in maybe 1-2 rotating lifting days a week where I’d do three of the above while doing some of the accessory work for the route climbing program. Started climbing at 26, now I’m 31 and get about 7-8 hours of sleep every night but I’m finding myself completely worn out every day. I climb in the 5.11 range. My cardio level is on the poor side, my mile time is a shade under 8:00. Height 5’10” – Weight 170 lbs. On to the questions:
1. When I stop doing the big lifts I feel like my whole body is getting weaker and I feel like it hurts my climbing. Doing the big lifts wears me out and the shock to my central nervous system from 250+ lb squats and deads seems hard to manage, do I need to just stop the big lifts?
2. How much do I need to run to improve cardio? It’s a battle to fit in consistently. What kind of heartrate for how much time should I be looking at X times per week?
3. What can I do generally to better manage fatigue and improve recovery?
This year with the commitment to training I’m climbing as hard as I ever have, with that comes some aches and pains and some mental questions, so here we go:
1. My hands feel like I have arthritis all the time. Took a rest week that stretched into 10 days and coming back they’re still sore all the time. Is this normal? Anything you can recommend to improve?
2. I’ve been managing pain in my A2 pulley on my left ring finger and A3 pulley on my right ring finger with a lot of Ibuprofen. While it’s great for the pain I’ve been seeing some discussion that NSAID’s inhibit healing. Seems like there’s a lot of conflicting discussion around inflammation lately, any take on this?
3. Having gotten into climbing a little later in life and mucking around on 9’s and 10’s for years before starting to “train” it feels like pushing through 11 will be impossible. Have any stories to share of 12+ crushers who started beyond age 25?
I’m going to Fontainebleu this fall and was wondering if there are some specific exercises that would be helpful for mantels. I’m currently living near Frankenjura which has non existent mantels, and manteling in a gym is not an option or just really easy. So I was wondering if there are some gym (non climbing) exercises that would help. Also if any of you had been to Font and had some tips would be appreciated.
I have a really hard project starting with a huge really difficult ironcross between sloping crimps at the start, i can do the move maybe once a day. Im curious if there is any specific training that could make a big ironcross move easier?
the move feels really impossible. seems like it could be v9-11 into a sustained pumpy 5.13b/c