Pulley Sprain Protocol
Rock Rehab Pyramid
The Pulley Sprain “Rock Rehab Pyramid Program” is a step-by-step rehabilitation and injury prevention plan designed specifically for rock climbers who have pain in the front of their finger. The goal of the four-phase process is to take you from the pain, inflammation and tissue overload stage to gain full mobility, strength and eventually pain-free climbing movement.
- How to get out of pain
- How to unload tissue with tape
- How to strengthen the area
- How to avoid injury again
Signs and Symptoms
- Can occur over any digit, but most commonly occurs over the ring finger along the A2 pulley
- Tender to the touch along the injured pulley
- Swelling, redness and inflammation
- Stiffness bending the fingers
- Painful to actively crimp and grip
The muscles in our forearms extend into long narrow tendons as they reach into the fingers. These tendons run through sheaths and are anchored down by pulleys that keep the tendons gliding flush to the bones. There are five annular pulleys that sling around the bone and four cruciform pulleys that form a cross over the bone to secure the tendon. When excessive strain is placed on the finger tendons, the pressure exerts an outward force on the pulley which may strain or tear it.
Goals of the Pulley Sprain Rock Rehab Program
- Decrease pulley load with therapeutic taping techniques.
- Improve mobility of the fingers with tendon glides.
- Regain pain-free finger range of motion.
- Strengthen the muscles that stabilize the fingers.
- Mirror rock climbing grips with specific strengthening exercises.
- Teach a specific pulley adaptation hang protocol
- Emphasize climbing movement patterns that help you avoid further injury.
The Rock Rehab Pyramid
The Rock Rehab Pyramid was developed by Dr. Jared Vagy, doctor of physical therapy, University professor, and published author. The videos will take you through a step-by-step injury prevention and rehabilitation protocol based on the location of your pain or soreness.
- Identify where it hurts
- Access the videos on your smartphone, tablet, or computer
- Unload, mobilize and strengthen
- Improve your climbing technique
- Prevent injury recurrence
Recommended Rehab Tools
The Rock Rehab Programs were built specifically for rock climbers. It is for this reason that any tool that is used in the program can either be bought as a rehabilitation tool or created from retired climbing equipment or household items. If you use retired climbing equipment or household items, it will be referenced in the videos as a “dirtbag substitution.” Below you will see a list of rehabilitation tools recommended for the Pulley Sprain Program.
If you would like to purchase any of the rehab tools, you can find them in the links below:
About the Climbing Doctor
- Doctor of physical therapy.
- University of Southern California professor.
- Residency trained in orthopedics and fellowship trained in movement science, totaling 9 years of concentrated study.
- Board certified orthopedic clinical specialist.
- Certified strength and conditioning specialist.
- Numerous articles on preventing injuries in DPM, Climbing and Climb Magazine.
- Author of Climb Injury-Free
- Lectures internationally on injury prevention.
- The youngest doctor of physical therapy in the country to achieve the level of fellowship training in movement science, publication status and University teaching credentials.
Sample Pulley Sprain Videos
These are videos from the actual Pulley Sprain Rock Rehab Pyramid Program.
Pulley Sprain Mobility Level 2: Finger Tendon Glides
This exercise glides the tendons in the fingers underneath the pulleys to improve range of motion and tissue healing
Pulley Sprain Strength Level 1: Resisted Finger Expansions
These exercises are in the pulley sprain program, and they improve the strength of the finger extensors to unload pressure on finger pulleys.
Get The Companion Book to This Program
The “Climb Injury-Free” book will teach you how to diagnosis, treat and prevent the 10 most common climbing injuries in step-by-step chapters. Learn exclusive injury advice with over 30 profiles from top professional climbers including Adam Ondra, Sasha DiGiulian Sean McColl, Jonathan Siegrist and many more. Now you can utilize the system used by thousands of climbers worldwide and see the results for yourself.
- Prevent climbing injuries before they happen
- Learn how to rehabilitate the 10 most common climbing injuries
- Discover the 30 incorrect movement patterns that cause injury
- Train smarter and climb stronger in a fraction of the time
- Push your ability to the next level without getting hurt