Project Description

TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training

Date: February 26th, 2020

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About Pete Whittaker

Pete Whittaker is a 28-year-old climber from Sheffield who’s made a name for himself in first ascent crack climbing and suffer-fests in general. If you recall the “Wide Boyz” film (here’s a good trailer), Pete and his friend Tom Randall, who now runs Lattice Training, trained for 2 years in Tom’s cellar on homemade crack systems. They then came to the U.S. and proceeded to crush just about every hard offwidth in the country, including a first ascent of Century Crack, 5.14b, the world’s first 5.14b offwidth.

Since then, Pete has done some other very impressive things in climbing. In 2016, he became the first person to solo-free (rope solo free-climb) El Capitan in under 24 hours. That year he and Tom also did the first ascent of the colossal 100m roof crack, Millennium Arch, 5.14. In 2019, Pete did the 3rd free ascent of one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, The Recovery Drink, 5.14c in Norway.

Honestly, I could go on and on about Pete’s accomplishments. He’s a very successful guy, and he shares his wisdom as a public speaker at various events. He also just wrote a book called Crack Climbing: The Definitive Guide, and I thought he’d be the perfect person to talk to about training for crack climbing.

I really enjoyed my talk with Pete, partly because it’s a topic I know very little about and I learned a lot of things, but also just because he’s a staunchly disciplined guy who really loves suffering on a lot of levels. And while he loves to suffer, he also laughs about it and makes fun of himself in a very entertaining British way. He’s fascinating to me. In the interview, we talk a lot about how he’s trained for various projects, how he and Tom trained for their first trip to the States, his diet, and why he is the way he is. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did!

Pete Whittaker Interview Details

  • Wide Boyz training details for Century Crack
  • Why their crack training was different
  • Transferring wooden cracks to real rock
  • Training offwidths vs hand/finger cracks
  • His training sessions for The Recovery Drink 5.14c
  • How changing his diet helped him send The Recovery Drink
  • Weight loss lessons
  • About his new book
  • His objectives now

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Photo Credit

Photo of Pete by Mike Hutton @mike.hutton.771


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TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, climbing training classes, nutrition classes, regular blog posts, interviews on The TrainingBeta Podcast, personal coaching for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

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