How to Lose Weight for Climbing by Neely Quinn
How to Lose Weight for Climbing by Neely Quinn I've been sort of dreading writing this blog post, even though I know it needs to be done. It's funny because I used to write about how to lose weight on paleoplan.com all the time. I was the nutritionist/blogger over there, [...]
Pro Climber Rannveig Aamodt on Justen Sjong’s Optimized Breathing Tactics
I just discovered Rannveig Aamodt, a Norwegian pro climber who recovered from a terrible (TERRIBLE) spine, leg, pelvis, and arm-breaking fall in 2012 and is now climbing just as hard or harder than she was pre-accident. She wrote this article called "Optimized Breathing Tactics - to improve your climbing or [...]
Kris Peters’ Interview on Alpine Training
Team of 2 Trainer, Kris Peters (author of our 6-Wk Power Endurance Training Program), is an all around athlete and trainer. His work with alpine athletes is impressive, including sessions with Emily Harrington (Mt. Everest summiter) and other Everest hopefuls. He recently did an interview at Second Mile Water on alpine [...]
Headstrong by Heather Weidner
This article was kindly written by Heather (Robinson) Weidner. Please see her bio at the bottom to find out more about her. Screenshot courtesy of 3SM Productions. Enter Heather... I have a confession: I believe in astrology. I know it doesn’t make sense. As a veterinarian, I was taught [...]
Vertical Mind Book Review by Dave Sheldon
The Vertical Mind book by Don McGrath Ph.D.& Jeff Elison Ph.D Buy it on Amazon here $24.95 This Vertical Mind Book review is by Dave Sheldon, a frequent contributor to popular climbing magazines. “…I refer to success in climbing as pushing beyond your current self-held limitations or comfort zones. Such successes require [...]
My Climbing Training Plan Designed by J-Star
As you may know, my husband, Seth, and I live on the road. We spent the fall of '13 in the Red River Gorge. We then went to Chattanooga, where it was so cold that I locked myself in our bedroom most days while Seth went climbing. Needless to say, [...]
Emily Harrington on Getting Back in Shape after A Long Break
This post was kindly written by pro climber, Emily Harrington. Getting back into sport climbing shape after several weeks or months off can be one of the most confidence-shattering processes any sport climber has to go through. Falling off routes you've once warmed up on, being scared to climb above [...]
How Angie Payne Trains for Climbing
This post was kindly written by Angie Payne, one of the strongest female boulderers in the world. Nevermind - she needs no introduction - you know who she is. Here's her training history and evolution in her own words... (By the way, the burly photo above was taken in Hueco [...]
Welcome to TrainingBeta!
First of all, thanks for checking out TrainingBeta! I'm so excited to finally get TrainingBeta live on the interwebs! It's been a long time coming! The idea for this site came in February 2013, and I've been working pretty diligently on it since then. It's been sort of this long-term dream [...]
Paige Claassen on Breathing and Falling
This post is by Paige Claassen, who is one of my closest, dearest friends, and one of my 2 favorite climbing partners. She's taught me a lot about what's possible in rock climbing, and I'm so happy to have her as a guest blogger. Also, I took her advice to [...]