14.c Evolv Athlete Kai Lightner
Many of you have probably already seen this video. But for those of you who haven't, it's inspiring and worth watching (and re-watching if you've already seen it). Outsidetelevision.com recently released this video of Evolv athlete Kai Lightner. He discovered climbing at age 6 and now at 14 is crushing both [...]
Learn This: How To Climb Finger Cracks
Looking to improve your finger crack climbing skills? Here is a great article from climbing.com that gives pointers on how to use your hands and feet when the crack goes from hand to finger size.... "Cruising the perfect hand crack is a joyous feeling. But when it narrows to fingers, [...]
The Top 5 Bad Gym Habits of Route Climbers
This article was written by Kris Hampton and reposted from his site powercompanyclimbing.com. Kris Hampton is not only our friend and a great climber, but also the author of our 8-week Endurance Training Program (which is worth checking out if you're looking to send longer routes....). Kris Hampton Here he talks [...]
Climbing Magazine: In Session – by Neely Quinn
Neely Quinn, creator of TrainingBeta, just wrote a great article about specific training tips she has learned from the pros that was published in the latest issue of Climbing Magazine! The article is called "In Session: Break Through Your Performance Barrier with these Tips from Top Pros" in the "Clinics" section on [...]
James Lucas on Big Wall Free Climbing
This article was kindly written by James Lucas, who with his Saturn station wagon, you may have seen orbiting around North America. He climbs, he travels, he writes, and spends as much time as he can in Yosemite. (photo above of James on the 11d arch pitch on The Final [...]
Top 5 Finger Strength Training Exercises -Nicros
Improving finger strength can be one of the best ways to get stronger quickly. With so many different exercises out there though, it can be hard to know what to focus on. In this article by Eric Hörst, from nicros.com, he shares what he considers to be the top 5 finger [...]
The Back Step, Footwork Technique- Alli Rainey
The natural tendency when you start climbing is probably to stay squared up to the wall, with your body positioned similarly to how you would approach climbing a ladder. The reality is, in climbing, the ladder-like approach can be limiting and less efficient and can even keep holds just out of [...]
Paige Claassen- Running as Cross-Training
To run?......or not to run?.....The question of whether or not cardio (namely, running) is good cross-training for climbing seems to come up a lot. In this video from La Sportiva (sportiva.com), pro-climber Paige Claassen shares her thoughts on her new found passion for trail running. She talks about how she [...]
How to Train Strength: Using Your 1 Rep Max
Hey look at this! TrainingBeta's very own Seth Lytton's article about training for climbing is in Dead Point Magazine's latest issue! He talks about using your 1 rep max for climbing training..... "The one rep max (1RM) is the maximum amount of weight that you can lift (or statically hold for a given [...]
Power and Strength: What They Are and How to Train Them
Power and Strength These two terms are commonly, and incorrectly, used interchangeably in the climbing community. This is a very clear cut, simple explanation about what each is and how best to train them. • Strength Defined Strength is defined as the maximal force that you can apply in a given [...]