Climbing Magazine: In Session – by Neely Quinn
Neely Quinn, creator of TrainingBeta, just wrote a great article about specific training tips she has learned from the pros that was published in the latest issue of Climbing Magazine! The article is called "In Session: Break Through Your Performance Barrier with these Tips from Top Pros" in the "Clinics" section on [...]
James Lucas on Big Wall Free Climbing
This article was kindly written by James Lucas, who with his Saturn station wagon, you may have seen orbiting around North America. He climbs, he travels, he writes, and spends as much time as he can in Yosemite. (photo above of James on the 11d arch pitch on The Final [...]
Top 5 Finger Strength Training Exercises -Nicros
Improving finger strength can be one of the best ways to get stronger quickly. With so many different exercises out there though, it can be hard to know what to focus on. In this article by Eric Hörst, from nicros.com, he shares what he considers to be the top 5 finger [...]
The Back Step, Footwork Technique- Alli Rainey
The natural tendency when you start climbing is probably to stay squared up to the wall, with your body positioned similarly to how you would approach climbing a ladder. The reality is, in climbing, the ladder-like approach can be limiting and less efficient and can even keep holds just out of [...]
Paige Claassen- Running as Cross-Training
To run?......or not to run?.....The question of whether or not cardio (namely, running) is good cross-training for climbing seems to come up a lot. In this video from La Sportiva (sportiva.com), pro-climber Paige Claassen shares her thoughts on her new found passion for trail running. She talks about how she [...]
How to Train Strength: Using Your 1 Rep Max
Hey look at this! TrainingBeta's very own Seth Lytton's article about training for climbing is in Dead Point Magazine's latest issue! He talks about using your 1 rep max for climbing training..... "The one rep max (1RM) is the maximum amount of weight that you can lift (or statically hold for a given [...]
Power and Strength: What They Are and How to Train Them
Power and Strength These two terms are commonly, and incorrectly, used interchangeably in the climbing community. This is a very clear cut, simple explanation about what each is and how best to train them. • Strength Defined Strength is defined as the maximal force that you can apply in a given [...]
Homemade Energy Bars- Recipe
What, when, and how we as rock climbers eat are important factors for success in climbing. Proper nutrition makes a big difference in your energy levels, muscle recovery, levels of inflammation, ability to recruit power and maintain endurance, and heal from an injury. We recently released the Rock Climbing Nutrition eBook by dietician Aicacia Young. [...]
Lateral Elbow Pain -The Climbing Doctor
Injuries are frustrating. Clearly. They are limiting, painful, and often times hard to recover from. With fall temps just around the corner, staying injury-free or recovering from an injury seems extra important right about now. This article from theclimbingdoctor.com shows an exercise to help with lateral elbow pain. The exercise [...]
Quick, Cheap and Easy Assisted Weight System for Hangboard Training
Having the ability to either add weight or take weight off when you're hangboard training can be a huge help in advancing your training. Wondering how to set up a system to be able to do that? This video from climber Chris Simmons of youtube.com/theaverageclimber shows you how to build your own pulley system in [...]