Rock and Ice: Building a Better Climber: Part 1
Rock and Ice is presenting a yearlong training plan broken down as a seven-part series of 6-week programming. They are basing their workout programming on the principles of periodization, a training approach that has been proven to yield good results. Their training plan is designed to work for climbers of all levels. [...]
Update: 1 Month After Shoulder Surgery
For more shoulder updates, see these posts: 3-Month Shoulder Surgery Update 1-Year Shoulder Surgery Update On November 10th, 2014 I had shoulder surgery. I, by the way, am Neely Quinn, one of the founders of TrainingBeta. My bio is here. If you've been following the podcast or my blog [...]
Training with Long-Duration Isometrics
"In terms of the physical aspect of climbing, the key to breaking new ground is tricking your body with a new exercise and novel regimen that imparts a training stimulus the body is not accustomed to." -Eric Hörst This article from nicros.com, written by Eric Hörst, is about long-duration isometrics [...]
Learn This: Mental Training for Climbers
Spending a little bit of time focusing on mental training can go a long way in improving your climbing. If you don't have a strong mind to back up your physical strength, you may be holding yourself back... "Years of personal climbing experience, countless climber surveys, and psychological research all [...]
Emerging Concepts in Injury Prevention: Pulley Strain
One of the most dreaded sounds to hear while climbing is a "pop" of the finger. I'm guessing you're cringing at the thought. Me too. This is an article by Dr. Jared Vagy, aka The Climbing Doctor (theclimbingdoctor.com) about preventing a pulley strain. "The 'pop' of a finger is most [...]
Bare Naked Hangboarding
Kris Hampton, author of our 8-Week Endurance Training Program, has an awesome, informative website: powercompanyclimbing.com, which this article is a repost from. Here, Kris shares some insight into how he has been able to get his hangboard workouts in despite his work schedule, weather conditions, and life stuff (read: he motivates [...]
Love is the Answer- Dave MacLeod
"Instead of ‘work your weaknesses’, lets change the mantra to ‘love working on your weaknesses’." -Dave MacLeod How many times have you found yourself thinking "not today, but tomorrow for sure" or "I'm just not psyched now, I'll do it later"....putting off training your weaknesses until another time? What if [...]
If You Want to Climb Your Best, You Have to Train With the Best
If you want to train with the best, a good place to start is by learning more about Kris Peters and Justen Sjong. We currently have two training programs written by Kris Peters (with more coming): a Bouldering Power and Strength Program and a 6-Week Power Endurance Program. Kris Peters is one of [...]
How to Get Stronger by Doing Nothing for 5 Minutes a Day
You've probably heard before how important resting is in the quest to get stronger at climbing. But actually resting and taking time to recover can be hard to do, yeah? Think you could build in a short 5 minutes a day of added rest? This is an article by Jeff Jackson [...]
Learn This: Master Topouts
Think about one of the most frustrating things that can happen when you're bouldering: you successfully do all of the hard climbing moves only to reach the top and not be able to do the topout. Grr. "Topping out can be the most difficult part of bouldering, especially if you’re [...]