Emily Harrington on Getting Back in Shape after A Long Break
This post was kindly written by pro climber, Emily Harrington. Getting back into sport climbing shape after several weeks or months off can be one of the most confidence-shattering processes any sport climber has to go through. Falling off routes you've once warmed up on, being scared to climb above [...]
How Angie Payne Trains for Climbing
This post was kindly written by Angie Payne, one of the strongest female boulderers in the world. Nevermind - she needs no introduction - you know who she is. Here's her training history and evolution in her own words... (By the way, the burly photo above was taken in Hueco [...]
Welcome to TrainingBeta!
First of all, thanks for checking out TrainingBeta! I'm so excited to finally get TrainingBeta live on the interwebs! It's been a long time coming! The idea for this site came in February 2013, and I've been working pretty diligently on it since then. It's been sort of this long-term dream [...]
Paige Claassen on Breathing and Falling
This post is by Paige Claassen, who is one of my closest, dearest friends, and one of my 2 favorite climbing partners. She's taught me a lot about what's possible in rock climbing, and I'm so happy to have her as a guest blogger. Also, I took her advice to [...]
The Process of Projecting by Jamie Emerson
How do I prepare for a big project, mentally and physically? Climbing to me is an art, it is a way of life, and a conduit through which I can articulate myriad creative thoughts, analytical ideas, physical self expressions and emotional states. I choose to be a boulderer, and to [...]
2 Tips for Finding Your Own Optimal Climbing Diet
Nutrition has a lot to do with your climbing performance. In fact, what you eat is a huge determining factor of your overall health, so if you're not healthy, you're not gonna climb very well. Now, I know what you're thinking. So and so pro climber eats candy and diet [...]
Sean McColl’s Campus Board Training Video
This is so awesome! Sean McColl (one of the greatest comp climbers in the world) made a video in which he describes his campus board training exercises in full detail. Thanks for the info, Sean! You can find more from him at www.seanmccoll.com.
Seth Lytton’s 3 Tips For Climbing Hard on A Road Trip
You know the feeling. You've been busy, but you're still trying to make time to train. Why? Because you have a little time off and a road trip is in the works!!! Whether it's Hueco, the Red River Gorge, Joe's Valley, or your favorite secret crag. When you're on the [...]
Shannon Forsman on How to Do More Than Just Crimp
This post was written by Shannon Forsman, an incredibly talented female boulderer, and a good friend of mine. She's been a role model for me for almost a decade, as proof that even short girls can do powerful, big moves on holds other than crimps. Enter Shannon... To [...]