The “10-4 Rule” – A Guide Line for Projecting
How long do you work on your project? A couple of attempts? Days? Weeks? Seasons? Climbing trainer Eric Hörst posted an article on his site trainingforclimbing.com that addresses the question of how much time you should spend projecting and whether or not obsessing day in day out over a single route is actually [...]
Marijuana and Climbing
Here at Training Beta, we recently conducted a survey about marijuana and climbing. We were specifically interested in the climbing community's thoughts about marijuana's effects on climbing performance and about the presence of marijuana at climbing areas in general. Dave Sheldon compiled our survey results and wrote this article in [...]
Training vs Practice with Steve Bechtel
Steve Bechtel, the author of our Strength Training Guide, posted an article on his site climbstrong.com that outlines the difference between training vs practice. In this article, Steve describes how as climbers we often overuse the term "training" to refer to anything that we do in climbing where we are trying to [...]
Slowing the Pump Clock with Eric Hörst
Are you falling off your project because you are getting pumped too quickly? Getting pumped is an inevitable part of route climbing, but the difference between success and failure on your goal route often hinges on your ability to delay the onset of a debilitating pump as long as possible. [...]
We’re Doing A Live FREE Q&A Session July 21st!
Hope you're doing well, climbing well, training hard, and all that good stuff. I'm on a break from climbing for a bit. I decided I need to focus on doing relaxing things for once in my life, like watching awful reality TV, drawing, and doing yoga. I'll be back at [...]
One Thing Out of Your Comfort Zone: Lead Climbing Confidence
If you've ever taken a bad fall while you're lead climbing it can be hard to regain your confidence in leading. This article by Dave MacLeod, from his site onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com, addresses 6 common pitfalls people fall into when they are trying to get their lead climbing confidence back. He lists [...]
Get Your Nutrition Questions Answered
Greetings to you on this fine Monday! I wanted to remind you guys that I (Neely Quinn - more about me here) am going to do a podcast episode where you can get your nutrition questions answered. I'll answer YOUR questions as a complete episode. Please, pretty please, write your [...]
Rest Day Shoulder Workout
If I had to guess, I'd say most of us are guilty of trying to ignore nagging injuries. Maybe not even injuries, but those climbing body parts that don't feel always 100%, minor tweaks and pains say, that you hope if you ignore might just go away? This is an [...]
Notes on Motor Learning in Climbing
What do you think about when you are trying to figure out the crux move on your project? Do you analyze every little part of the movement and obsess over the minutia of what your right foot is doing? How about your friends and climbing partners? Do they chime in [...]
The Value of a Training Log for Climbing
Do you record your workouts? Climbing trainers may not agree on all the specifics of what exercises to do, but one thing they all agree on is that recording your training could not be more important. Here's an article by Steve Bechtel of Climb Strong and author of our Strength Training [...]