Slowing the Pump Clock with Eric Hörst
Are you falling off your project because you are getting pumped too quickly? Getting pumped is an inevitable part of route climbing, but the difference between success and failure on your goal route often hinges on your ability to delay the onset of a debilitating pump as long as possible. [...]
We’re Doing A Live FREE Q&A Session July 21st!
Hope you're doing well, climbing well, training hard, and all that good stuff. I'm on a break from climbing for a bit. I decided I need to focus on doing relaxing things for once in my life, like watching awful reality TV, drawing, and doing yoga. I'll be back at [...]
One Thing Out of Your Comfort Zone: Lead Climbing Confidence
If you've ever taken a bad fall while you're lead climbing it can be hard to regain your confidence in leading. This article by Dave MacLeod, from his site onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com, addresses 6 common pitfalls people fall into when they are trying to get their lead climbing confidence back. He lists [...]
Get Your Nutrition Questions Answered
Greetings to you on this fine Monday! I wanted to remind you guys that I (Neely Quinn - more about me here) am going to do a podcast episode where you can get your nutrition questions answered. I'll answer YOUR questions as a complete episode. Please, pretty please, write your [...]
Rest Day Shoulder Workout
If I had to guess, I'd say most of us are guilty of trying to ignore nagging injuries. Maybe not even injuries, but those climbing body parts that don't feel always 100%, minor tweaks and pains say, that you hope if you ignore might just go away? This is an [...]
Notes on Motor Learning in Climbing
What do you think about when you are trying to figure out the crux move on your project? Do you analyze every little part of the movement and obsess over the minutia of what your right foot is doing? How about your friends and climbing partners? Do they chime in [...]
The Value of a Training Log for Climbing
Do you record your workouts? Climbing trainers may not agree on all the specifics of what exercises to do, but one thing they all agree on is that recording your training could not be more important. Here's an article by Steve Bechtel of Climb Strong and author of our Strength Training [...]
Sam Elias Climbing in Lebanon
Sam Elias is a friend of Training Beta and a super talented, hardworking climber who we know trains hard. VICE Sports recently released a video from Sam's trip to Lebanon where he not only bolted and sent some of the hardest routes in the Middle East, but also reconnected with family [...]
Transitioning from Gym to Crag
Did you spend all winter training hard in the gym preparing for the summer season only to find that you have felt awkward and seemingly unprepared once you made it back outside? Transitioning from gym to crag after a long stint of only climbing on plastic can be difficult and [...]
Maximum Strength Fingerboarding with Steve Maisch
Steve Maisch is a climber, trainer, and economics professor based in Salt Lake City, Utah. In his recent Training Beta Podcast, he talks quite a bit about using fingerboarding/hangboarding as a way to improve max finger strength. Unlike the Anderson Brothers, however, Steve does not perform the common "repeater" exercise [...]