Chris Sharma on Training
A few weeks ago, we posted a video about Chris Sharma committing to a training program with high level climber and trainer Paxti Usobiaga. If you haven't seen it, the video is extremely motivating. Not only do you get to see Chris really digging deep to get through some brutal [...]
Dynamic Stretching with Crux Crush
When you warm up, do you simply hop on the wall and do some easy climbing? If you do, then you definitely know the feeling of going for a move you aren't quite warm enough for and failing because you simply can't move effectively yet. The main reason this happens [...]
Tendinitis or Tendinosis?
Tendinitis is a term that gets throw around a lot when talking about climbing injuries. However, while tendinitis is definitely a real condition that can affect climbers, most of the time people are actually suffering from tendinosis not tendinitis. To help explain the difference, here's an article by professional climber [...]
Dr. Volker Schoeffl on Taping
Go to any climbing gym or crag and you'll see climbers taping up left and right. While a lot of this tape is used to cover up thin or torn skin, climbers also use finger tape to help prevent injuries and nurse existing finger tweaks. There is a lot of [...]
Weight Lifting Guidelines with Steve Bechtel
More and more climbers are starting to incorporate traditional weight lifting into their climbing training. When used properly, weight training can be a powerful tool to increase overall strength levels and prevent injury. However, when training for climbing, weight lifting needs to be kept in perspective. It needs to be [...]
Emily Harrington: Aim High, Fail Often
For many of us the reason we train is to get stronger so we will be able to climb our next hardest route or boulder problem. While this process is obviously a large part of what make climbing such an amazing and rewarding sport, it does imply a sort of [...]
BD Bootcamp Ladies Edition
Two summers ago for the first BD Bootcamp Black Diamond, athletes Joe Kinder, Sam Elias, and Dan Mirsky committed to putting outdoor climbing on hold while they trained together in an effort to up their overall climbing level. This time it was the ladies' turn as Black Diamond athletes Daila [...]
Hang Just Right: Shoulder Maintenance for Climbers
Today we are going to stick with the shoulder maintenance theme we've got going this week. As we talked about yesterday, climbing movement puts a ton of stress and wear and tear on the shoulder joint. Doing exercises like the one's Dr. Vagy outlined yesterday are a great way to [...]
The Climbing Doctor Shoulder Exercises
In climbing, shoulder injuries are far to common. Additionally, because of the nature of climbing movement and the anatomy of the shoulder, shoulder injuries are something that affect climbers of all ability levels. Because of these realities, climbers of all ability levels should regularly perform a regiment of shoulder exercises [...]
Trango Vergo Belay Device Review
UPDATE: Voluntary Recall Notice Vergo Belay Device: Batch Numbers 16159 and 16195 April 14, 2017—Trango has elected to voluntarily recall all Trango Vergo belay devices in batch numbers 16159 and 16195 that were sold after 1 October 2016. Please IMMEDIATELY cease use of all such Vergos and return them to [...]