Complete Core Training with Eric Hörst
When most people talk about a strong core, they immediately think of six pack abs and unending sets of sit ups. However, training a complete core for climbing requires strengthening all the muscles between the shoulders and hips on both the front and back of your body. To do this [...]
Hangboarding for Endurance
It is commonly understood that hangboarding is the best method for improving finger strength. However, if you are in a bind and have enough motivation, hangboards can be used to train everything from power endurance to full on route endurance. Hangboarding for endurance may not be the most exciting form [...]
Natasha Barnes – Barbell Overhead Press
One of the most important rules of training for climbing is that the worst kind of training is the training the gets you injured. However, an unfortunate reality of climbing is that it is really hard on our shoulders. All of the overhead pulling combined with our tendency to hang [...]
Steve Bechtel – Back to Basics
With 2017 fast approaching, it's time to talk about New Year's resolutions. If you've made it to TrainingBeta then chances are improving at climbing is one of your priorities and you are probably thinking about kick starting 2017 with a new ramped up training schedule chock full of hard work. [...]
Warming Up with Will Anglin
For most climbers, warming up is something you simply get through as quickly as possible. Most seem to treat it as a necessary evil and take whatever possible shortcuts to cut down the amount of time they spend on it. However, warming up is an extremely important step in any climbing or [...]
Cardio for Climbing – Is It Worth It?
Depending on who you talk to, activities like running and cycling are either great forms of climbing cross training, a waste of time from a climbing perspective, or, at worst, detrimental to climbing performance. Because this training issue seems to flare up people's passions more than any other, the question [...]
Andy Burgress: Bouldering to Sport Climbing
For anyone who is a diehard boulderer, the thought of tying in and being able to pull hard on moves after anything more than several feet of climbing can be extremely daunting. No matter how easy the moves feel in insolation, the thought of linking the entire climb together can [...]
Mark Anderson on Choosing Shadowboxing
A couple months ago, we posted an article by Mark Anderson, one of the authors of The Rock Climber's Training Manual, about his successful ascent of his multi-season project Shadowboxing in Rifle Colorado. Mark's ascent was particularly impressive not only because few climbers ever successfully climb 5.14d/9a, but also because of [...]
The Unsung Benefits of Yoga for Climbing (and 4 Yoga Sequences for Climbers)
It’s no secret that the flexibility gained from yoga is great for climbing. From drop-knees to heel-hooks, adequate flexibility is a necessary part of climbing movement. However, some of the ways that yoga can most positively impact climbers are often overlooked. In fact, the structural stabilization, proprioception, and use of [...]
Eric Hörst: Contact Strength Training Video
Today, we have the second installment in Eric Hörst's training for climbing video series with EpicTV. While the first video focused on hangboard training and how to effectively develop maximum finger strength, this video features campus board exercises that focus on contact strength. "In this episode of my Epic-TV training series, [...]