Uzo Ehiogu: Wrist Pain and Climbing
An unfortunate reality in climbing is that it puts a lot of strain on our bodies which means there are lots of ways for us to injure ourselves. While finger, elbow, and shoulder injuries are the most common in climbers, wrist pain injuries are often overlooked despite the fact that [...]
Steve Bechtel – Hangboarding for the Longterm
One thing that has been scientifically proven is that improved finger strength correlates directly to improved climbing performance. With our current understanding of how to train for rock climbing just barely entering the scientific arena, having such a direct correlation definitely proven is a big deal. It should come as [...]
Bouldering Open Nationals Interviews 2017
In case you missed it, the 2017 US Bouldering Open Nationals were held February 3rd and 4th at the Salt Palace Convention Center in Salt Lake City, UT. All the competitors put on an amazing show that finished with Alex Puccio and Nathaniel Coleman taking top honors. TrainingBeta's own Neely [...]
Hang Right – Part II: Elbow Pain in Climbers
In a recent TrainingBeta Podcast episode, Neely spoke with climber and physical therapist Esther Smith specifically about elbow pain. In their talk, they covered exactly what can cause elbow pain, what climbers can do to treat their conditions, and what we can do to avoid elbow problems all together. Anyone [...]
Training Women For Upper-Body and Core Strength
For many female climbers, upper-body and core strength can be weaknesses that affect climbing performance. Obviously, with climbing being a sport that revolves around strength to weight ratio, addressing any weaknesses in upper-body and core strength is important for any climber looking to maximize performance. While simply climbing on steep [...]
Lattice Training: Power Endurance
When it comes to route climbing, one of the most important attributes to train is power endurance. Having good power endurance (PE) allows you to make it through long sections of difficult climbing and make it to the next rest before being too powered down to make the next move. [...]
Balanced Climbing Shoulders
An unfortunate reality of climbing is that it places a lot of stress on our shoulders. While there's always the risk of an acute injury, climbers also commonly suffer shoulder pain caused by overuse and muscle imbalances. Maintaining balanced climbing shoulders is the best way to protect your shoulders from [...]
New Finger Training Programs!
One thing we've been missing from our arsenal of training tools has been a clear, concise training program for JUST training finger strength. While our other programs have finger training in them, we needed something that was more focused. If you have ever searched the internet for a good fingerboard [...]
Increasing Your Power with Climbing Magazine
Increasing your power level is one of the hardest to get right and most intense forms of climbing training. However, while strength is still the basis of hard rock climbing, power is an extremely important feature that must be trained. No matter how strong you are, eventually the holds will [...]
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk: So Much Training…
If you have made your way to this blog, then you are clearly interested in training and trying to get stronger at climbing. However, what are you actually training for? Do you have a specific goal or are you simply trying to improve across the board? No matter what the [...]