Blog Posts about Injuries
Preventing Ankle Sprains
Spend any time bouldering and eventually you'll land awkwardly and roll an ankle. This fall can definitely result in a sprained or even broken ankle. However, just like any climbing injury, there is injury prevention work that you can do [...]
Natasha Barnes – Barbell Overhead Press
One of the most important rules of training for climbing is that the worst kind of training is the training the gets you injured. However, an unfortunate reality of climbing is that it is really hard on our shoulders. All [...]
Warming Up with Will Anglin
For most climbers, warming up is something you simply get through as quickly as possible. Most seem to treat it as a necessary evil and take whatever possible shortcuts to cut down the amount of time they spend on it. However, warming [...]
Failure to Sleep = Failure to Train
How much do you sleep a night? Do you make sure that you get a full eight hours or do you settle for whatever you can fit into your busy schedule? Well it turns out that a failure to sleep [...]
Grip Trainers – Gimmicks or Not?
If you search around the internet, you'll quickly find a wide variety of grip strength trainers many of which are marketed directly at climbers. However, while these grip trainers may seem enticing as easy portable ways to increase finger strength, [...]
Kraft Factory Training – Shoulder Stability
Coaches Dicki Korb and Patrick Matros of Germany's Kraft Factory are the trainers behind Alex Megos' success so they clearly know a thing or two about producing high level climbers. With many of their training techniques they take a slightly [...]
Barbell Rehab
When people talk about strength training for climbing, most assume that it should be focused primarily on finger strength and our ability to pull. While both of these attributes are definitely important, focusing entirely on them neglects training overall strength [...]
The Three Underlying Reasons for Climbing Injuries
Anyone who has trained hard for or taken climbing seriously knows the constant risk of injury. On TrainingBeta, we have also written extensively about all the antagonist exercises you should be doing to stave off climbing injuries before they happen. [...]
Dynamic Stretching with Crux Crush
When you warm up, do you simply hop on the wall and do some easy climbing? If you do, then you definitely know the feeling of going for a move you aren't quite warm enough for and failing because you [...]
Tendinitis or Tendinosis?
Tendinitis is a term that gets throw around a lot when talking about climbing injuries. However, while tendinitis is definitely a real condition that can affect climbers, most of the time people are actually suffering from tendinosis not tendinitis. To [...]