Blog Posts about Injuries
Forearm Antagonist Training for Climbing
If you have read any of our other posts on injury prevention, we talk a lot about the importance of antagonist training (i.e. TRX/gymnastic rings) as a way to strengthen under-utilized muscles and prevent muscular imbalance. While these principles apply [...]
How to Get the Most Out of Your Climbing Gym Session
Unless you are lucky enough to live somewhere with perfect outdoor climbing conditions year round, then chances are you are going to spend a good amount of time pulling plastic in a climbing gym. However, while a climbing gym session [...]
Dr. Vagy Climbing Warmup Exercises
A good, thorough warm up is one of the most important aspects of any day out climbing or training. Warming up not only readies and allows your body to try its hardest, but also is one of best forms of injury prevention. To [...]
Express Bouldering Warm Up
One of the quickest ways to sabotage a climbing or training session is to neglect warming up properly. By rushing through your warm up, you deprive your body and mind the time they need to fully prepare to try hard [...]
Quadrupedal Movement and Its Benefits for Climbing
While it may not make your fingers or biceps stronger, we all know that a good thorough warmup is extremely important for climbing. Making sure you body is completely warmed up allows you to effectively try your hardest and is [...]
Power Training and the Aging Climber: Injury, Adaptation and Strategy
We have posted before about the effects age can have on training for climbing and in doing so we have noted that unfortunately there does come a point at which making gains, especially in power and strength, becomes more difficult [...]
1-Year Shoulder Surgery Update for Neely
As some of you know, I (Neely) had shoulder surgery in November of 2014, so it's been a little over a year since then, and I wanted to update you all on how it's going. First of all, here's a [...]
Climbing Nutrition – Tendons
As climbers, finger strength and the health of our tendons is of the upmost importance. Having strong, healthy fingers will not only allow you to pull effectively on small holds, but will also allow you to keep climbing injury free. [...]
Training While Injured – Neil Gresham
Injuries are an unfortunate reality in climbing. Chances are if you climb for long enough eventually you will experience some sort of injury that may sideline you temporarily. It is important to remember, however, that not all injuries mean you [...]
Why Do I Suck At Climbing Some Days?!? Part 2: Readiness Monitoring
We've all had projects that get under our skin. If you're anything like me, this can often lead to questioning whether or not today is a good day for me to try and send. I obsess over whether or not [...]