The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 018 :: Mike Doyle on Training for Necessary Evil and Having A Career While Still Climbing Hard
Direct Download: LINK Date: March 30th, 2015 About Mike Doyle Mike Doyle is a full time(+) computer programmer in his late 30's who crushes hard rock climbs. He's a Vegas local who has devoted the last several seasons to the route Necessary Evil (classic 5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, [...]
TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training
Direct Download: LINK Date: February 18th, 2015 I was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. About Adam Ondra He doesn't really need much of [...]
TBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and Veganism
Direct Download: LINK I got to sit down with the great Steph Davis the other day and chat about her training for climbing, her vast accomplishments, her FFAs, her free soloing exploits, her diet, her wing suit flying, and all kinds of other stuff. About Steph Davis I can't really do [...]
TBP 015 :: Heather Weidner on Trying Hard and Sticking with Projects
Date: January 7th, 2015 Direct Download: LINK It's been FOREVER since I published a podcast episode and I'm really sorry for the inconsistency! My surgery and ensuing weirdness has had me away from working very much at all, but I'm hoping to start putting podcasts up again on a regular [...]
TBP 014 :: Physical Therapist Jared Vagy on Injury Prevention and Treatment
October 31st, 2014 Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss About Dr. Jared Vagy I am so excited to put this podcast out! Holy crap. This is some MUCH NEEDED info for climbers of all types and ability levels, and I really hope you listen to the whole thing. Jared [...]
TBP 013 :: Hans Florine on Speed Climbing The Nose and Training for It
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss About Hans Florine This is from Wikipedia because I couldn't possibly sum this up any better. Hans Florine has a long and storied history on El Cap, and in particular on The Nose. Here goes: Hans Florine (born June 18, 1964)[3][4][5] is an [...]
TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss About Alli Rainey Alli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s up to [...]
TBP 011 :: Dan Mirsky on Staying Strong on the Road, Training for Rifle, and Whether Running Helps Him Send
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss About Dan Mirsky Dan Mirsky is an understated crusher. I've been watching him gracefully take down rock climbs in Rifle for as long as I've been climbing there. Last year we witnessed his fitness (literally) in The Red when we were next door neighbors [...]
TBP 010 :: Kris Peters on All Things Training, Team of 2, TrainingBeta, and Cardio
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss About Kris Peters Hooray!! I finally did an interview with my favorite climbing trainer, Kris Peters! He's been working on TrainingBeta with us since basically the beginning, so I've had plenty of time to get to know and love this guy. He's kind [...]
TBP 009 :: Mike and Mark Anderson on Their Book, J-Star, and How Less Is More
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss About Mark and Mike Anderson I'm psyched to introduce this podcast with brothers Mark and Mike Anderson. We did a longer-than-usual interview this time, partly because there were two of them and mostly because they have a lot of advice to give. For [...]
TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss After many months of trying to find a time that worked for both of our crazy schedules, Alex Johnson and I finally sat down and had a conversation about her climbing, training, eating, and other aspects of her life. Alex Johnson is an [...]
TBP 007 :: Steve Bechtel on Training, Power Endurance, Running, Weight Loss, and More
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel, a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, catering to individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where [...]
TBP 006 :: Kris “Odub” Hampton on Training, 14a, Rapping, and His TrainingBeta Program
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss This podcast interview is with Kris "Odub" Hampton, a climber, trainer, artist, business owner, and all around great guy. I met him last fall at his home crag, the Red River Gorge, when we both had projects in the Motherlode (I was on [...]
TBP 005: Jonathan Siegrist on Sending, Failing, Training, and Dreaming Big
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss About Jonathan Siegrist This interview is with one of my really good friends, Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star. I met Jonathan about 4 or 5 years ago and for some reason we just clicked and have stayed tight ever since. He's one of my [...]
TBP 004: Angie Payne on V14, Failures, Rivals, Diet, Weight, and Training
Download on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss I met Angie Payne in 2004 when she first moved to Boulder. I worked at the Spot Bouldering Gym and she lived at the Spot Bouldering Gym. Not really, but she was there an awful lot. She was quiet, shy, sweet, and studious [...]