The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.



Ask Kris 003 :: Training for Bouldering vs Routes
Date: April 12th, 2016 Training for Bouldering vs Routes This week, in our third mini episode of Ask Kris, we decided to talk about the similarities and differences between training for [...]
TBP 050 :: V8 Boulderer Teal Dreher Compares Training Programs
Date: April 7th, 2016 About Teal Dreher This is an interview with Teal Dreher, a V8 boulderer who climbed through the grades in just a few years using various training [...]
Ask Kris 002 :: The 3 Best Lifts for Climbers
Date: April 5th, 2016 New Ask Kris Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will [...]
TBP 049 :: Trainer Mercedes Pollmeier on ARCing and Training for 5.12
Date: March 31st, 2016 About Mercedes Pollmeier This is an interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, a Strength and Conditioning coach out of Seattle, Washington. She has a Master's degree in Human Movement [...]
Ask Kris :: Finger Training Mini Episode
Date: March 29th, 2016 New Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be [...]
TBP 048 :: Neil Gresham on Training for 5.11 and 5.12
Date: March 24th, 2016 About Neil Gresham This is an interview with Neil Gresham, a British climber and trainer who's been training people for about 20 years now. He's the training [...]
TBP 047 :: Jorg Verhoeven on The Nose, V15, and World Cup Training
Date: March 14th, 2016 About Jorg Verhoeven Jorg Verhoeven is a professional Dutch climber who lives and trains in Austria. He's done about 150 world cups (in both bouldering and routes), [...]
TBP 046 :: Neely Quinn on Weight Loss for Climbers
Date: March 7th, 2016 About Neely Quinn I (Neely Quinn) am your host for the podcast every week, but I'm also a practicing nutrition therapist, and have been since about 2007. [...]
TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on 15b, V15, and Depression
Date: February 24th, 2016 About Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He [...]
TBP 044 :: Matt Helliker Talks Training for Alpine Routes
Date: February 16th, 2016 About Matt Helliker Matt Helliker is a notable alpinist who's done quite a few first ascents. He's originally from England, but now lives, climbs, and guides in [...]
TBP 043 :: Neely Explains The Ketogenic Diet
February 9th, 2016 Ketogenic Diet and Climbers I've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had [...]
TBP 042 :: David Mason on Training for V13
Date: February 3rd, 2016 About David Mason David Mason is a British boulderer who's climbed up to V13/14 (King of Limbs in South Africa) and many boulders between V10 and V13. [...]
TBP 041 :: Matt Lloyd and His Climbing/CrossFit Hybrid Gym
Date: January 27th, 2016 About Matt Lloyd Matt Lloyd is a long-time friend of my husband, Seth, having started climbing on the same team in Denver about 15 years ago. He's known [...]
TBP 040 :: Nina Williams on Training for V13, Comps, and Diet
Date: January 6th, 2016 About Nina Williams Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Dark Horse [...]
TBP 039 :: Dave MacLeod on Training, Injuries, and Fear
Date: December 31st, 2015 About Dave MacLeod Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers in the world, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad [...]