The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 044 :: Matt Helliker Talks Training for Alpine Routes
Date: February 16th, 2016 About Matt Helliker Matt Helliker is a notable alpinist who's done quite a few first ascents. He's originally from England, but now lives, climbs, and guides in Chamonix, France. As an ice climber, a mixed climber, a trad climber, a sport climber, and a boulderer, I was [...]
TBP 043 :: Neely Explains The Ketogenic Diet
February 9th, 2016 Ketogenic Diet and Climbers I've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it and due to their media coverage of it, I expect that a lot of people will want [...]
TBP 042 :: David Mason on Training for V13
Date: February 3rd, 2016 About David Mason David Mason is a British boulderer who's climbed up to V13/14 (King of Limbs in South Africa) and many boulders between V10 and V13. In 2014, he managed to send 20 boulder problems between V11 and V13 during a 17-day trip to Vastervik, Sweden. He's a [...]
TBP 041 :: Matt Lloyd and His Climbing/CrossFit Hybrid Gym
Date: January 27th, 2016 About Matt Lloyd Matt Lloyd is a long-time friend of my husband, Seth, having started climbing on the same team in Denver about 15 years ago. He's known for his bold R and X-rated ascents, and now for having started a small gym in Denver called Mountain Strong [...]
TBP 040 :: Nina Williams on Training for V13, Comps, and Diet
Date: January 6th, 2016 About Nina Williams Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Dark Horse comp in 2015, but she spends most of her energy climbing outdoors and training for that. Being a full-time sponsored [...]
TBP 039 :: Dave MacLeod on Training, Injuries, and Fear
Date: December 31st, 2015 About Dave MacLeod Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers in the world, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad climbs. Honestly, I'm not going to do him justice with a short introduction of his climbing and career, as he's [...]
TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Thorough and Scientific Training Methods
Date: December 16th, 2015 About Tom Randall Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical [...]
TBP 037 :: Thomasina Pidgeon on Climbing V12 at Age 40
Podcast is on iTunes is HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: December 7th, 2015 About Thomasina Pidgeon Thomasina Pidgeon is a Canadian boulderer - one of the strongest Canadian female climbers, actually, having done over 40 boulders V11 to V12. She's also competed quite a bit, and has been quite successful on national [...]
TBP 036 :: Steve Bechtel Interview #2
Podcast is on iTunes is HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: November 25th, 2015 About Steve Bechtel I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel for a second time. Steve is a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, catering to [...]
TBP 035 :: Isabelle Faus on Sending V14
Podcast is on iTunes is HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: November 18th, 2015 About Isabelle Faus Isabelle Faus is a 22 year-old boulderer out of Boulder, CO. (Yes, I know that a lot of my guests are from Boulder, but there are just so many amazing climbers here!) Isabelle climbed her first V14 in [...]
TBP 034 :: Justen Sjong on Improving Your Mental Game
Podcast is on iTunes is HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: August 20th, 2015 About Justen Sjong Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to 5.14a big walls with none other than Tommy Caldwell, and crushing 5.14 sport climbs across the [...]
TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently
Direct Download: LINK TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes Date: November 4th, 2015 (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Will Anglin Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college, he's a certified personal trainer, [...]
TBP 032 :: Nathan Drolet (Average Joe Climber) Trains Smart and Climbs Hard
Direct Download: LINK Date: October 5th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is [...]
TBP 031 :: Ben Moon on Training and Climbing Through The Decades
Direct Download: LINK Date: August 20th, 2015 About Ben Moon Ben Moon is an iconic climber from England who's accomplished much in his 40-year climbing career. He's 49 years old and just sent 9a (5.14d) this year, after having put up the first of the same grade in 1990 ("Hubble" in [...]
TBP 030 :: Jon Cardwell on How He Climbs Hard Routes and Boulders
Direct Download: LINK Date: August 12th, 2015 (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Jon Cardwell Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and V15, along with being one of the top male bouldering competitors in the U.S. He's a sponsored [...]