The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
Ask Kris 007 :: Are You Overtraining?
Date: June 9th, 2016 Are You Overtraining? This week, in our seventh mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about the signs and symptoms of overtraining, and how much rest people really need. Here's what we talked about: What overtraining looks like How long you should feel tired after starting a [...]
TBP 054 :: Ryan Vachon on Mixed Climbing Training
Date: June 7th, 2016 About Ryan Vachon This is an interview with Ryan Vachon, a 43-year-old who won the Ouray Mixed Climbing Competition this year (2016) and sent Saphira, M15- shortly afterward. As a full-time climate scientist at his company, Earth Inititiatives, he has a lot on his plate. He's the ultimate weekend [...]
Ask Kris 006 :: Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing
Date: May 26th, 2016 Improving Overall Fitness for Climbing This week, in our sixth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve overall fitness for climbing. I was actually a little bit confused about what "fitness" really meant, and Kris helped me understand what it is and how to gain [...]
TBP 053 :: Aaron Mulkey on Ice Climbing Training
Date: May 24th, 2016 About Aaron Mulkey This is an interview with Aaron Mulkey, the 39-year-old who was dubbed the "Patriarch of Cody Ice" for his 100+ first ascents in the Wyoming area. We dig in to what motivates him to find new routes and climb so hard, all while maintaining [...]
Ask Kris 005 :: Improving Core Strength for Climbing
Date: May 16th, 2016 Improving Core Strength for Climbing This week, in our fifth mini episode of Ask Kris, we talked about how to improve core strength for climbing. Having just spent last week in Rifle on my project, I realized that I need to gain a lot of core strength myself, [...]
TBP 052 :: How Mathilde Becerra Is Top 10 in World for Lead Climbing
Date: May 5th, 2016 About Mathilde Becerra This is an interview with 25 year-old Mathilde Becerra, who's on the French National Climbing team. In 2015, Mathilde ended up in the top 10 overall in lead climbing, and even though she doesn't have much time for outdoor climbing, she has climbed up to 5.14a [...]
Ask Kris 004 :: Shoulder Care for Climbers
Date: May 2nd, 2016 Shoulder Care for Climbers This week, in our fourth mini episode of Ask Kris, we decided to talk about shoulder care for climbers - one of my favorite topics. A lot of climbers have shoulder issues, and we discuss what to do after you have a shoulder injury and [...]
TBP 051 :: Sean McColl Tells Us How He Trains
Date: April 14th, 2016 About Sean McColl This is an interview with 28 year-old Sean McColl, a well-known Canadian climber who's accomplished amazing things both outdoors and in competitions. I can't describe his amazing accomplishments better than he does on his website, so here's an excerpt... "Sean was the Canadian Youth Champion [...]
Ask Kris 003 :: Training for Bouldering vs Routes
Date: April 12th, 2016 Training for Bouldering vs Routes This week, in our third mini episode of Ask Kris, we decided to talk about the similarities and differences between training for bouldering vs routes, and what crossover there is between them. Why route climbers need to train power and how to do [...]
TBP 050 :: V8 Boulderer Teal Dreher Compares Training Programs
Date: April 7th, 2016 About Teal Dreher This is an interview with Teal Dreher, a V8 boulderer who climbed through the grades in just a few years using various training programs. She also regularly puts in 70 hours per week as an environmental engineer, so I thought she'd be a perfect [...]
Ask Kris 002 :: The 3 Best Lifts for Climbers
Date: April 5th, 2016 New Ask Kris Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. Don't worry: I'll still be doing [...]
TBP 049 :: Trainer Mercedes Pollmeier on ARCing and Training for 5.12
Date: March 31st, 2016 About Mercedes Pollmeier This is an interview with Mercedes Pollmeier, a Strength and Conditioning coach out of Seattle, Washington. She has a Master's degree in Human Movement and started working with climbers of all abilities, including elite level/competition climbers, in Colorado. Currently she works at the Seattle [...]
Ask Kris :: Finger Training Mini Episode
Date: March 29th, 2016 New Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. Don't worry: I'll still be doing the [...]
TBP 048 :: Neil Gresham on Training for 5.11 and 5.12
Date: March 24th, 2016 About Neil Gresham This is an interview with Neil Gresham, a British climber and trainer who's been training people for about 20 years now. He's the training columnist at both Climbing and Rock & Ice magazines, and has written extensively on the topic. At 44, he's still [...]
TBP 047 :: Jorg Verhoeven on The Nose, V15, and World Cup Training
Date: March 14th, 2016 About Jorg Verhoeven Jorg Verhoeven is a professional Dutch climber who lives and trains in Austria. He's done about 150 world cups (in both bouldering and routes), and he won the Overall Lead World Cup in 2008 and was World Youth Champion twice. He did the 4th [...]