The TrainingBeta Podcast
The Best Resource for Climbing Training Beta
On the TrainingBeta Podcast, Neely Quinn talks to climbers, coaches, physical therapists, and other professionals about how to get better at rock climbing. As a nutritionist and a mindset coach, she offers her own expertise to the mix as well. You can expect to find actionable advice and meaningful conversations on this podcast that will help you train smarter, fuel yourself better, and find more fulfillment in your rock climbing.
TBP 152 :: Juliet Hammer on Weight Training and Racism in Climbing
I talk with Juliet Hammer about strength training for climbing using weights, compensating for being a short climber, what to focus on with your training during the pandemic, and racism in the climbing community.
TBP 151 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Body Image and Disordered Eating in Climbers
I had a conversation with fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, RDN, about negative body image and disordered eating among climbers.
TBP 150 :: Matt Pincus on Returning to Climbing after a Break
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to efficiently return to climbing after a long break. We discuss everything from frustration about getting pumped quickly to reassessing goals to meet your new reality.
TBP 149 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Role of Stretching for Climbers
In this interview, Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times.
TBP 148 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Nutrition for Climbers during Quarantine and Beyond
I had a conversation with fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, RDN, about how we can eat to truly nourish ourselves during quarantine and beyond.
TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home
In this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.
TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19
I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train at home during COVID-19. We discuss how we're training ourselves, recommended equipment, how to approach training at home, and some workouts you can do.
TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers
Mark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.
TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training
I talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.
TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely
I talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.
TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing
In this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing.
TBP 141: Dietitian Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
Dietitian Marisa Michael discusses eating disorders, disordered eating, and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.
TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills
Climbing trainer Mercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses with her clients to improve climbing skills and strength.
TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods
Bradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.
TBP 138: Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues
I talk with Marina Inoue about overcoming her short stature through specific training, why she loves living in her van full-time, and some relatable body image issues.