Will Anglin – RULES

Rule #1: When Will Anglin lays down knowledge, listen! Today, we have an article from Will Anglin of Tension Climbing in which he lays out 7 rules of training.  However, these rules aren't about what [...]

By | April 4th, 2017|

6-Week Power Endurance Program Sneak Peek

All climbers need a certain amount of power endurance.  Without good power endurance, you will find yourself in the situation of being able to do all the moves on your projects, but failing because you [...]

By | April 2nd, 2017|

Jonathan Siegrist on Skin Care

Today we are going to try something a little different.  Here at TrainingBeta, we've been talking about how the podcasts are full of so much valuable information from some of the top climbers, trainers, and [...]

By | March 31st, 2017|

The Project Magazine – Malcolm Smith Interview

Training for climbing may seem like the hot new thing right now.  However, while training may be more popular than ever, there have been people systematically training with incredible amounts of discipline for decades.  While [...]

By | March 29th, 2017|

Gnarly Nutrition: Why Climbers Should be Using BCAAs

Take a look at the general fitness world.  The athletes participating in these activities (whether they are crossfit, weightlifting, or endurance sports) all use dietary supplements to help increase their performance and speed up their [...]

By | March 28th, 2017|

Transitioning from Bouldering to Sport Climbing: 5.9 to 5.14

It's Neely here, and today I have the distinct privilege of introducing TrainingBeta's content manager, Matt Pincus, as our featured author of this article. Matt is a psyched and accomplished climber, and he's put a [...]

By | March 22nd, 2017|

Rock and Ice – Margo Hayes on Sending La Rambla 5.15a

On February 26th, Margo Hayes successfully reappointed the route La Rambla in Siurana, Spain.  This ascent was historic in that it marked the first ascent by a woman of a confirmed 5.15a/9a+ route.  While TrainingBeta is [...]

By | March 21st, 2017|

Splitter Choss: Training With a Finger Injury

If you climb long enough, you're going to at least tweak a finger.  For most climbers, when we injure a finger the immediate reaction is to think we need to take some time off climbing [...]

By | March 17th, 2017|