Ben Couldn’t Get Past 5.10 and Now He’s On 5.12a’s!

“TrainingBeta has been extremely beneficial to me. I had no idea how to train for climbing besides some basic 4×4 workouts, and I was having a hard time getting over the 5.10 grade for a couple years. Since doing your 6-week Power Endurance program I am leading 5.11s and top roping 5.12a’s and I’m feeling a lot more confident in my ability to keep improving. Training Beta is definitely worth every penny and I highly recommend it to everyone I meet at the gym and the crag.”

You guys are awesome!
Ben Henson

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Warming Up with Will Anglin

For most climbers, warming up is something you simply get through as quickly as possible.  Most seem to treat it as a necessary evil and take whatever possible shortcuts to cut down the amount of time they [...]

By | December 27th, 2016|

Cardio for Climbing – Is it Worth It?

Depending on who you talk to, activities like running and cycling are either great forms of climbing cross training, a waste of time from a climbing perspective, or, at worst, detrimental to climbing performance.  Because [...]

By | December 24th, 2016|

Andy Burgress: Bouldering to Sport Climbing

For anyone who is a diehard boulderer, the thought of tying in and being able to pull hard on moves after anything more than several feet of climbing can be extremely daunting.  No matter how [...]

By | December 23rd, 2016|

Mark Anderson on Choosing Shadowboxing

A couple months ago, we posted an article by Mark Anderson, one of the authors of The Rock Climber's Training Manual, about his successful ascent of his multi-season project Shadowboxing in Rifle Colorado.  Mark's ascent [...]

By | December 20th, 2016|

The Unsung Benefits of Yoga for Climbing (and 4 Yoga Sequences for Climbers)

It’s no secret that the flexibility gained from yoga is great for climbing. From drop-knees to heel-hooks, adequate flexibility is a necessary part of climbing movement. However, some of the ways that yoga can most [...]

By | December 12th, 2016|

Eric Hörst: Contact Strength Training Video

Today, we have the second installment in Eric Hörst's training for climbing video series with EpicTV.  While the first video focused on hangboard training and how to effectively develop maximum finger strength, this video features campus [...]

By | December 9th, 2016|

Failure to Sleep = Failure to Train

How much do you sleep a night?  Do you make sure that you get a full eight hours or do you settle for whatever you can fit into your busy schedule?  Well it turns out [...]

By | December 6th, 2016|

Grip Trainers – Gimmicks or Not?

If you search around the internet, you'll quickly find a wide variety of grip strength trainers many of which are marketed directly at climbers.  However, while these grip trainers may seem enticing as easy portable [...]

By | December 3rd, 2016|