Medial Epicondylosis Protocol
Rock Rehab Pyramid
The Medial Epicondylosis “Rock Rehab Pyramid Program” is a step-by-step rehabilitation and injury prevention plan designed specifically for rock climbers who have pain along the inside of their forearm up to their elbow. The goal of the four-phase process is to take you from the pain, inflammation and tissue overload stage to gain full mobility, strength and eventually pain-free climbing movement.
- How to get out of pain
- How to unload tissue with tape
- How to strengthen the area
- How to avoid injury again
Signs and Symptoms
- Painful localized point along the inside of the forearm
- Discomfort with actively flexing the wrist forward
- Discomfort with passively extending the wrist backwards
When you climb, you are constantly overworking the finger and wrist flexors in the front of your forearm by gripping. The repetitive action of constantly flexing your fingers and wrist can lead to degeneration of the shared tendon as it inserts into the bone. You should be aware of dangerous movements that can increase the stress on the finger and wrist flexors tendon and eventually lead to pain and injury. These movements include over-gripping, gripping with a flexed hand and sagging your hips too far away from the wall.
Goals of the Medial Epicondylosis Rock Rehab Program
- Decrease medial epicondylosis with therapeutic taping techniques.
- Improve mobility of the wrist and elbow with tendon glides.
- Regain pain-free wrist and elbow range of motion.
- Eccentrically strengthen the muscles that stabilize the elbow.
- Identify errors in climbing technique that stress the inside elbow.
- Emphasize climbing movement patterns that help you avoid further injury.
The Rock Rehab Pyramid
The Rock Rehab Pyramid was developed by Dr. Jared Vagy, doctor of physical therapy, University professor, and published author. The videos will take you through a step-by-step injury prevention and rehabilitation protocol based on the location of your pain or soreness.
- Identify where it hurts
- Access the videos on your smartphone, tablet, or computer
- Unload, mobilize and strengthen
- Improve your climbing technique
- Prevent injury recurrence
Recommended Rehab Tools
The Rock Rehab Programs were built specifically for rock climbers. It is for this reason that any tool that is used in the program can either be bought as a rehabilitation tool or created from retired climbing equipment or household items. If you use retired climbing equipment or household items, it will be referenced in the videos as a “dirtbag substitution.” Below you will see a list of rehabilitation tools recommended for the Medial Epicondylosis Program.
If you would like to purchase any of the rehab tools, you can find them in the links below:
About the Climbing Doctor
- Doctor of physical therapy.
- University of Southern California professor.
- Residency trained in orthopedics and fellowship trained in movement science, totaling 9 years of concentrated study.
- Board certified orthopedic clinical specialist.
- Certified strength and conditioning specialist.
- Numerous articles on preventing injuries in DPM, Climbing and Climb Magazine.
- Author of Climb Injury-Free
- Lectures internationally on injury prevention.
- The youngest doctor of physical therapy in the country to achieve the level of fellowship training in movement science, publication status and University teaching credentials.
Sample Medial Epicondylosis Videos
These are videos from the actual Medial Epicondylosis Rock Rehab Pyramid Program.
Medial Epicondylosis Mobility Level 2: Elbow and Wrist Tendon Glides
This exercise glides the tendons in the elbow and wrist by alternating between shortening and lengthening the tendon at each joint.
Medial Epicondylosis Movement Advice: Relax, Neutral Wrist, Hip Forward
The video teaches you how to move on the wall while minimizing stress on the inside of the elbow
Get The Companion Book to This Program
The “Climb Injury-Free” book will teach you how to diagnosis, treat and prevent the 10 most common climbing injuries in step-by-step chapters. Learn exclusive injury advice with over 30 profiles from top professional climbers including Adam Ondra, Sasha DiGiulian Sean McColl, Jonathan Siegrist and many more. Now you can utilize the system used by thousands of climbers worldwide and see the results for yourself.
- Prevent climbing injuries before they happen
- Learn how to rehabilitate the 10 most common climbing injuries
- Discover the 30 incorrect movement patterns that cause injury
- Train smarter and climb stronger in a fraction of the time
- Push your ability to the next level without getting hurt