Intermediate Finger Training Program


This program is for climbers at the V5-V7 or 5.11d-5.12c level. You should be able to hang on a 1-pad edge without a pulley system for 10 seconds repeatedly in order to do this program. The 5-week program provides you with 2 unique finger workouts every week. It will make your fingers stronger, which will make you an overall stronger climber. These hangboard workouts are accompanied by additional strength and injury prevention exercises. Each workout is between 90 and 120 minutes long, including the warm-up.

The program comes with a logbook that you can print out and fill out while you’re doing your workouts to track your progress. It also includes a set of intense core workouts that you can add to any of your finger workouts. This is an ebook in PDF format that you can access from any device.

Recommended Equipment

All you really need is the hangboard to do the finger workouts, but the other items on this list will come in handy for the other exercises.

  • Hangboard (preferaby Rock Prodigy)
  • Pulley system for pull-ups only (optional)
  • Plate weights up to 25 lbs
  • Barbell
  • dumb bells up to 20 lbs.
finger training climbing

Other Finger Training Programs