Advanced Finger Training Program


This program is for climbers at the V8 or 5.12d level and above. In order to do this program, you should be able to repeatedly hang on a half-pad edge with no assistance for 10 seconds, preferably with weight attached to your body. The 5-week program provides you with 3 unique finger workouts every week. It will make your fingers stronger, which will make you an overall stronger climber. These hangboard workouts are accompanied by additional strength and injury prevention exercises. Each workout is between 90 and 120 minutes long, including the warm-up.

The program comes with a logbook that you can print out and fill out while you’re doing your workouts to track your progress. It also includes a set of intense core workouts that you can add to any of your finger workouts.

Recommended Equipment

All you really need are the hangboard to do the finger workouts, but the other items on this list will come in handy for the other exercises.

  • Hangboard (preferaby Rock Prodigy)
  • Pulley system for 1-arm training
  • Plate weights up to 25 lbs
  • Barbell
  • TRX (optional)
  • Pull-up bar
  • Dumb bells up to 20 lbs
finger training climbing

Other Finger Training Programs