Lateral Epicondylosis Protocol
Rock Rehab Pyramid
The Lateral Epicondylosis “Rock Rehab Pyramid Program” is a step-by-step rehabilitation and injury prevention plan designed specifically for rock climbers who have pain along the front of their forearm up to their elbow, also known as “tennis elbow.” The goal of the four-phase process is to take you from the pain, inflammation and tissue overload stage to gain full mobility, strength and eventually pain-free climbing movement.
- How to get out of pain
- How to unload tissue with tape
- How to strengthen the area
- How to avoid injury again
Signs and Symptoms
- Painful localized point along the outside of the forearm
- Discomfort with actively extending the wrist backwards
- Discomfort with passively flexing the wrist forward
When you climb, you are constantly overworking the finger and wrist flexors in the front of your forearm by gripping. However, every time that you grip a hold, the muscles in the back of your forearm contract to stabilize the wrist. This constant activation of the muscles in the back of your forearm can lead to overuse and injury at the origin of the muscle on the outside of the elbow called the lateral epicondyle. You should be aware of dangerous movements that can lead to injury. This includes gripping with an extended wrist, climbing with your elbows away from the wall and jamming wide cracks.
Goals of the Lateral Epicondylosis Rock Rehab Program
- Decrease lateral epicondylosis with therapeutic taping techniques.
- Improve mobility of the wrist and elbow with tendon glides.
- Regain pain-free wrist and elbow range of motion.
- Eccentrically strengthen the muscles that stabilize the elbow.
- Identify errors in climbing technique that stress the outside elbow.
- Emphasize climbing movement patterns that help you avoid further injury.
The Rock Rehab Pyramid
The Rock Rehab Pyramid was developed by Dr. Jared Vagy, doctor of physical therapy, University professor, and published author. The videos will take you through a step-by-step injury prevention and rehabilitation protocol based on the location of your pain or soreness.
- Identify where it hurts
- Access the videos on your smartphone, tablet, or computer
- Unload, mobilize and strengthen
- Improve your climbing technique
- Prevent injury recurrence
Recommended Rehab Tools
The Rock Rehab Programs were built specifically for rock climbers. It is for this reason that any tool that is used in the program can either be bought as a rehabilitation tool or created from retired climbing equipment or household items. If you use retired climbing equipment or household items, it will be referenced in the videos as a “dirtbag substitution.” Below you will see a list of rehabilitation tools recommended for the Lateral Epicondylosis Program.
If you would like to purchase any of the rehab tools, you can find them in the links below:
About the Climbing Doctor
- Doctor of physical therapy.
- University of Southern California professor.
- Residency trained in orthopedics and fellowship trained in movement science, totaling 9 years of concentrated study.
- Board certified orthopedic clinical specialist.
- Certified strength and conditioning specialist.
- Numerous articles on preventing injuries in DPM, Climbing and Climb Magazine.
- Author of Climb Injury-Free
- Lectures internationally on injury prevention.
- The youngest doctor of physical therapy in the country to achieve the level of fellowship training in movement science, publication status and University teaching credentials.
Sample Lateral Epicondylosis Videos
These are videos from the actual Lateral Epicondylosis Rock Rehab Pyramid Program.
Lateral Epicondylosis Strength Level 2: FlexBar Twists
This exercise eccentrically loads the wrist extensor muscles to strengthen the muscle and tendon
Lateral Epicondylosis Movement Advice: Neutral Wrist, Elbows In, Twist Hand
The video teaches you how to move on the wall while minimizing stress on the outside of the elbow
Get The Companion Book to This Program
The “Climb Injury-Free” book will teach you how to diagnosis, treat and prevent the 10 most common climbing injuries in step-by-step chapters. Learn exclusive injury advice with over 30 profiles from top professional climbers including Adam Ondra, Sasha DiGiulian Sean McColl, Jonathan Siegrist and many more. Now you can utilize the system used by thousands of climbers worldwide and see the results for yourself.
- Prevent climbing injuries before they happen
- Learn how to rehabilitate the 10 most common climbing injuries
- Discover the 30 incorrect movement patterns that cause injury
- Train smarter and climb stronger in a fraction of the time
- Push your ability to the next level without getting hurt