Treadwall Training with Climbing Magazine

Training routes in a climbing gym can be tricky.  Even putting aside other hurdles like crowds, the main reason for this is that you need a partner to belay you.  While this may not seem [...]

By | June 20th, 2017|

Finger Strength: Free Beginner Hangboard Workout

When it comes to the physical side of training for climbing, the most important thing to focus on is training finger strength.  Not only is it central to improving performance, but it also takes the longest [...]

By | June 19th, 2017|

The Climbing Doctor: Thoracic Mobility for Climbers

Mobility is the new buzzword in injury prevention and rehab.  While mobility work certainly isn't new, climbers are starting to realize that actively working on and improving our mobility is essential for pain free climbing. [...]

By | June 16th, 2017|

Transcript Highlight: Mathilde Becerra on Double Sessions

With all the information on training and all the exercises you"should be doing," it can be hard to know how to fit everything in without turning your sessions into 5 hour marathons that leave you [...]

By | June 14th, 2017|

Esther Smith: New Grassroots Self Treatment Videos

If you follow the TrainingBeta Podcast, then you are no doubt familiar with physical therapist Esther Smith.  She is an incredibility talented physical therapist who works primarily with climbers and is a 5.13 climber herself. [...]

By | June 13th, 2017|

Rock Climbing Nutrition: Rest Day Guidelines

Hopefully you got outside and climbed all weekend.  It being Monday, that means you are probably due for a rest day. While we all want to climb everyday, rest days are critical important.  Hard training and [...]

By | June 12th, 2017|

Neil Gresham: Systems Wall and Symmetrical Training

If you are looking for a way to diversify your strength and power training, systems wall and symmetrical training are a great option.  The benefit of these training techniques is that unlike hangboarding and campus boarding [...]

By | June 9th, 2017|

Eric Hörst: Managing the Fear of Falling

When you first start climbing, the fear of falling can be overwhelming.  For many climbers, it is likely one of the main factors holding back your climbing performance.  However, being scared of falling is perfectly normal [...]

By | June 6th, 2017|