The Climbing Doctor: Finger Pulley Strains

Climbing is hard on our fingers. No matter how careful you are or how diligently you train your fingers, finger tweaks can happen. Finger pulley strains are by far the most common of these, but that doesn't mean we just [...]

By |2019-02-26T13:54:10+00:00December 21st, 2018|0 Comments

Quantifying Isometrics Part 2: Program Auto-Regulation and Its Implications on Finger Training

A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for [...]

By |2018-09-12T18:33:22+00:00September 12th, 2018|1 Comment

Beta Angel – A New Resource for Climbing Research

As climbing and training become more and more popular, we are learning more and more about what actually works. Think back a couple years ago. We hadn't even reached a consensus on whether or not hangboarding was an effective way [...]

By |2018-06-27T10:18:52+00:00June 25th, 2018|0 Comments

Dave MacLeod: Edge Hangboard and How-To Hangboard Video

Now I know what you're thinking, another article on hangboarding?  We all know finger strength is important and hangboarding is the best way to train it - so haven't we pretty much covered it? Well, those are fair questions.  Unfortunately, while [...]

By |2017-12-05T08:39:18+00:00December 5th, 2017|0 Comments

EpicTV – Mastermind Mental Training Videos

Most of the time when we talk about training for climbing we are talking about improving our physical abilities.  However, when it comes to actually putting forth a good climbing performance whether outside on your project or in a competition, [...]

By |2017-11-28T09:16:47+00:00November 27th, 2017|0 Comments

Rock Rehab Pyramid Videos

Climbing and training places a ton of repetitive strain on our bodies.  Far too many climbers are continually suffering from injuries that make climbing painful, affect performance, and in the worst cases prevent them from climbing all together.  It's with [...]

By |2017-10-25T08:30:19+00:00October 25th, 2017|0 Comments

Online Personal Climbing Training with Matt Pincus

We are excited to announce that we are now offering online personal climbing coaching with Matt Pincus! Matt has been a part of TrainingBeta for the past three years as our Content Manager and Social Media Manager, and he's excited to [...]

By |2017-10-17T09:13:32+00:00October 17th, 2017|0 Comments

V-Points – A Climbing Tracking App

One of the fundamental principles of training is that it needs to be measurable.  Measuring your training lets you can gradually increase the load to ensure you are continually overloading your system. However, with climbing, getting accurate measurements can be [...]

By |2019-02-10T12:46:36+00:00October 5th, 2017|2 Comments