Black Diamond Rope Review

While any climbing rope from a major manufacturer will keep you safe, not all ropes are equally pleasant to use.  Anyone who has ever dealt with a rope that is prone to twisting, getting stuck, or just doesn't handle well [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:35:26+00:00 August 8th, 2017|1 Comment

More for Less: Blood Flow Restriction Training

Blood flow restriction training, ever heard of it?  We hadn't either until Tyler Nelson, friend of TrainingBeta and owner of Camp4 Human Performance, told us about it.  It turns out, blood flow restriction training isn't a new technique, but it [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:35:31+00:00 August 2nd, 2017|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Justin Brown on If You Should Keep Your Skin Dry

An unfortunate reality of climbing is that it can beat up our skin.  We've all been there hoping our skin will get less greasy, willing our skin to grow faster, or praying a split will heal over night all so [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:35:45+00:00 July 21st, 2017|0 Comments

Send SLIM Knee Pad Review

Send Climbing knee pads?!?!?!??!?!? I know what you're thinking: It's summer and not even the greatest knee pad ever designed could get me up my projects in the inferno that is currently Hueco Tanks. The Send SLIM pad [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:35:48+00:00 July 17th, 2017|0 Comments

Beast Fingers Strength-to-Weight Ratio Study

Our friends at Beast Fingers Climbing are conducting research and need your help!  Essentially, Beast Fingers, makers of the Grippul, are studying strength-to-weight ratio in climbers and they need more participants. When you compare training for climbing to training for [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:01+00:00 June 30th, 2017|0 Comments

Midwest Training for Climbing Conference

Training for climbing is exploding in popularity.  As a result, there's more information available about how to improve your climbing than ever before.  Unfortunately, knowing individual training techniques doesn't mean you have the full picture.  This is especially true when it [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:06+00:00 June 27th, 2017|0 Comments

Esther Smith: New Grassroots Self Treatment Videos

If you follow the TrainingBeta Podcast, then you are no doubt familiar with physical therapist Esther Smith.  She is an incredibility talented physical therapist who works primarily with climbers and is a 5.13 climber herself.  Obviously, for climbers, with our [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:19+00:00 June 13th, 2017|0 Comments

Evening Sends: Climbing Mobility with Kelly Starrett

With all the talk in the training community about injury prevention, it can seem like overuse injuries are the inevitable outcome of hard climbing and training.  However, this attitude is missing the most important part of injury prevention and that's [...]

By | 2017-09-18T06:36:35+00:00 May 24th, 2017|0 Comments