John Kettle: 6 Ways to Lengthen Your Reach

Not long ago we published an article by Neely about how she trains to compensate for being short. The response was great and it clearly seems like a topic many people are interested in and need help with. Today, we [...]

By |2019-08-06T08:49:12+00:00August 6th, 2019|0 Comments

Brannon Frank: Max Isometrics and Their Application for Youth Coaches

The use of isometrics in climbing training is growing. While they've been common practice in finger strength training for a long time (think hangboarding), the use of max isometrics in a variety of strength training modalities is becoming more diverse [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:17:59+00:00March 14th, 2019|0 Comments

Remy Franklin: A Better Way to Set Your New Year’s Climbing Goals

Yes, it’s that time of year again. The last days of December roll around, everyone flocks to El Potrero Chico, and when January hits you take stock of your life and join the roughly half of Americans who set a [...]

By |2019-03-29T17:26:36+00:00January 3rd, 2019|2 Comments

Quantifying Isometrics Part 2: Program Auto-Regulation and Its Implications on Finger Training

A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for [...]

By |2018-09-12T18:33:22+00:00September 12th, 2018|1 Comment

Performance Climbing Coach Seminar with Steve Bechtel, Neely Quinn, etc

If you take your climbing training seriously (or your clients') and you feel like you just can't get enough information about it by reading and watching videos, then it might be time for you to invest in more hands-on learning. [...]

By |2018-08-20T10:06:40+00:00August 9th, 2018|0 Comments

Climb Strong: Foundation Strength

We all know that getting stronger is an important part of improving climbing performance. However, many periodized programs give us the idea that we should only work on strength during certain blocks of our training. According to Steve Bechtel of [...]

By |2018-12-24T09:39:08+00:00August 9th, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training

You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you [...]

By |2019-02-10T12:28:33+00:00July 17th, 2018|0 Comments

Beta Angel – A New Resource for Climbing Research

As climbing and training become more and more popular, we are learning more and more about what actually works. Think back a couple years ago. We hadn't even reached a consensus on whether or not hangboarding was an effective way [...]

By |2018-06-27T10:18:52+00:00June 25th, 2018|0 Comments