Matt Pincus: Principles of Core Training

You've been in the gym for hours. Your fingers are stiff. Your skin hurts. Despite all of this you want to do more. After all, you want to get stronger and training is supposed to be hard. So what do you [...]

By | 2018-07-17T10:03:53+00:00 July 17th, 2018|0 Comments

Beta Angel – A New Resource for Climbing Research

As climbing and training become more and more popular, we are learning more and more about what actually works. Think back a couple years ago. We hadn't even reached a consensus on whether or not hangboarding was an effective way [...]

By | 2018-06-27T10:18:52+00:00 June 25th, 2018|0 Comments

Tension Climbing – Foundations

It doesn't take long on the internet to find loads of new climbing training exercises. Quite often, exercises are even presented as some kind of shortcut to climbing improvement. Combine this abundance of information with the fact that our scientific [...]

By | 2018-06-13T14:55:37+00:00 June 12th, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: 4 Keys to Limit Bouldering

A staple of most training programs is that they contain some kind of bouldering. Even programs designed for route climbers typically have a bouldering component. The reason for this is that bouldering is a simple and efficient way to train strength [...]

By | 2018-05-31T09:27:05+00:00 May 31st, 2018|0 Comments

Matt Pincus: Fitting Everything In

A big question I get from my athletes is about fitting everything into their training schedule. After all, there are only so many hours in the week and you need rest days so fitting everything in can be difficult. However, we [...]

By | 2018-05-23T14:04:30+00:00 May 24th, 2018|1 Comment

Natasha Barnes: A Simple Intermediate Program

In the past couple months, we've shared a series of articles by climber, chiropractor, and sports injury rehabilitation specialist Natasha Barnes. These two articles have been Natasha's attempt to lay out some general principles about training that she feels climbers neglect [...]

By | 2018-05-15T13:21:33+00:00 May 17th, 2018|2 Comments

Uphill Athlete: Rock Climbing Skill Drills

Earlier this week, we posted an article by Steve House from Rock and Ice Magazine where he argued that we should differentiate between strength and climbing skill sessions. House's argument here is that because climbing is a skill sport we [...]

By | 2018-05-11T08:44:21+00:00 May 11th, 2018|0 Comments

Transcript Highlight: Dave MacLeod on Training vs Performance

As climbers, most of us always want to be pushing hard to progress our climbing. We want to be training as hard as possible when we are in the gym and sending as hard as possible when we are outside. [...]

By | 2018-05-07T09:09:08+00:00 May 8th, 2018|0 Comments