How to Train Power without a Campus Board

One of the most common questions we get here at TrainingBeta is what people should substitute into their training when they don't have access to a campus board. Before we talk about what other types of training can take the place [...]

By | 2017-12-20T09:01:44+00:00 December 20th, 2017|0 Comments

Climb Strong: Recovery Training

Most climbers know that climbing or training every day is a quick way to end up burned out and injured. Our bodies need rest to recover from training sessions and days out climbing. However, calling days away from climbing and training [...]

By | 2018-01-08T17:35:01+00:00 December 15th, 2017|0 Comments

Preparing to Try Hard Part 1: Isometric Testing and P.A.P. for Coaches

With training, we take certain things for granted and think they are so basic they don't need to be spelled out. The best example of this would be thinking that when lifting weights we actually need to move the weight [...]

By | 2017-12-12T08:30:46+00:00 December 11th, 2017|2 Comments

Dave MacLeod: Edge Hangboard and How-To Hangboard Video

Now I know what you're thinking, another article on hangboarding?  We all know finger strength is important and hangboarding is the best way to train it - so haven't we pretty much covered it? Well, those are fair questions.  Unfortunately, while [...]

By | 2017-12-05T08:39:18+00:00 December 5th, 2017|0 Comments

Climb Strong: Advances in Core Training

We all know that having a strong core is important for climbing.  However, with all the core exercises out there, it can be hard to tell exactly what's going to be the most effective core training for climbing. To provide some [...]

By | 2017-12-01T09:37:08+00:00 December 1st, 2017|0 Comments

EpicTV – Mastermind Mental Training Videos

Most of the time when we talk about training for climbing we are talking about improving our physical abilities.  However, when it comes to actually putting forth a good climbing performance whether outside on your project or in a competition, [...]

By | 2017-11-28T09:16:47+00:00 November 27th, 2017|0 Comments

Climb Strong: Effective Warm-Ups

We talk a lot about how our training should be specific to our actual climbing goals.  However, when it comes to warming up, we can all acknowledge how important it is, but for most of us warming up simply consists [...]

By | 2017-11-15T09:36:11+00:00 November 15th, 2017|0 Comments

Climbing Magazine: Three Subtle Technique Changes with Justen Sjong

When our performance plateaus, most of us immediately feel like we need to double down on our training.  After all, climbs would feel a whole lot easier if you just had stronger fingers, could do 1-5-9 on the campus board, [...]

By | 2017-11-10T13:17:23+00:00 November 10th, 2017|0 Comments