If you didn't find what you were looking for, try a new search!
A couple weeks ago we posted the first half of an interview Dr. Jared Vagy, The Climbing Doctor, did with Spanish climber and trainer Eva Lopez about injury prevention and what she does to keep herself and her athletes from getting [...]
We talk a lot here at TrainingBeta about injury prevention. While we think that everything we post on the topic is important, today's article from Dr. Jared Vagy's blog, The Climbing Doctor, deserves some extra attention. It features an interview with [...]
As climbers, we all know that having strong fingers is important for climbing harder routes and boulders. When we first start climbing, we develop finger strength just through climbing. However, eventually, these gains level off and if you are really looking [...]
Have you ever wondered if doing dead hangs on the hangboard or campusing helps train pinch grip strength at all? Or what the best ways to train that kind of grip strength are? Obviously your thumbs are a very important part [...]
This review was written by Kris Hampton and reposted from his site, powercompanyclimbing.com. Kris Hampton is our friend and the author of our 8-Week Endurance Training Program, which you should definitely check out if you're wanting to send long routes! [...]
In this podcast interview, I talk with climbing coach Lauren Abernathy about how she changed careers from an engineer to a climbing coach, and her advice on doing two sports at once.
I talk with James Lucas about how he became a stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more. He discusses how he got out a few times a week even with a full-time job and what he learned about projecting efficiently.
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.
In this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.
A few months back, Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City, wrote an article that covered the use of isometrics in training for [...]