If you are not happy with the way your climbing performance is going, then the best thing you can do is change the way you prepare and train. Here’s an article by Teal Dreher about how she used the custom training programs offered by Kris Peters here at Training Beta to do just that.
Teal is a stronger boulderer who was looking to up her level so that should could send her projects in Red Rocks and Moe’s Valley during and up coming trip. Knowing that she needed to revamp her training, she contacted Kris.
“Kris Peters is a well-known climbing trainer out of Boulder, Colorado. He recently teamed up with Training Beta (an excellent website and podcast series that discusses all things climbing) and was offering personalized 5-week training plans. I decided to jump on this opportunity and put the fate of my trip into someone else’s hands. I sent Kris a brief bio of my climbing and a short clip of me working on Scare Tactics Right (V9), which is one of my projects down in Red Rocks. My goal for this training was to send this problem as well as Dead Rabbit (V10) in Moe’s Valley. I told him that I assumed that what I was lacking was power endurance, since I had done all of the individual moves on both of my projects, but couldn’t seem to put them together. After watching the clip I sent, Kris emailed me back and gave me a brief breakdown of my strengths and weaknesses:”
Strengths:
- Locking-off
- Closing my fingers around the holds
- Trying hard
Weaknesses:
- Core
- Shoulder strength
- Keeping my feet on the wall
“He told me that yes, power endurance was probably an issue, but also my feet cut on several moves, indicating that I don’t have enough body tension and am therefore wasting a good deal of energy, which is why I probably didn’t have enough left in the tank to finish the climb. My 5-week plan would focus on core strength, shoulder strength, finger strength, and power endurance. This feedback from Kris was really great to hear because it is something that I hadn’t thought of, but it made total sense. This alone felt like it was worth the price of the training plan.”
Beyond simply outlining her strengths and weaknesses, Kris provides Teal with a comprehensive training plan specifically designed to help her reach her goals. The training plan itself consisted of five workouts per week that targeted finger strength, shoulder strength, core strength, and power endurance.
After laying out why she contacted Kris and the results of Kris’ evaluation, Teal gives her overall impressions of following her custom Training Program. She discusses all the positives like how she can already tell she is getting stronger, how she learned a lot of new exercises, and how having a responsive coach allowed her to push herself farther than she would have been able to on her own.
Teal, however, does not sugar coat the process and also talks about the negatives such as how her training sessions were long and time consuming, how during the five week cycle she was constantly in a state of fatigue, and how being this dedicated cut into the social aspects of her climbing.
Click through below to read all about Teal’s experience using one of Kris Peter’s custom training programs and whether you are a boulder or a route climber, a beginner or an experienced climber with years of training under your belt check out our Online Training Programs or our Custom Training Programs and take your training to the next level.
Click Here: Teal Dreher – Fatigue. Goals. Training. (link no longer available)
(photo courtesy of tealasaurus.wordpress.com)
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